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Bonas Defeat

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A Licheny Trick (original name unkown) T 
Straight Through the Heart T 
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Yellow Gap Road
A Forest Service road providing great link-up opportunities for area singletrack. Near Brevard, North Carolina
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Bonas Defeat  Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 3,400'
Location: 35.21165, -83.01007 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,977
Administrators: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: McLovin on Sep 4, 2016  with updates from Scott Phil
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Trust inspiring, P3 anchors Blackened Groove.

Description 

Are you ready to get super lost? Are you a strong hiker and bushwhacker? are you good at map finding? Do you love super manky bolts with old school steel crabs that are almost rusted through? if yes to all of these then Bona's wall is for you.

Bona's Defeat wall is not easily found though it is beautiful once there.

Also keep in mind that the Tuckasegee river gorge is damn controlled and water levels could rise rapidly at a moments notice. The kayakers refer to it as "inordinately dangerous"

Owned by the NC forest service, The Bonas defeat wall itself is approximately 400ft tall boasting a 3 pitch mixed climb up the main blackened water groove.

Word on the street is, everything here has most likely been climbed once upon a time. However documentation seems to be lacking? It is also possible that I have not yet done enough research. who knows? prove me wrong add something to the page!

Getting There 

From highway 64 near lake toxaway take the turn onto 281 North. after about 8.5miles take a left onto rock bridge rd. after about 2.8 miles is the trail head, there is currently logging (9.4.2016) going on just after the trail head. The logging has also lead to a large amount of debris covering an already very faint trail head. There is a tree with blue flagging and orange paint currently(they are using that a lot with the logging and it does not seem to mark any trail DO NOT try to follow the tape or paint)
This is my best guess for the lat/lon of the trail head using google earth:
35°12'20.79"N
83° 1'7.17"W
There is not any easy way to describe the trails or rather lack there of. The general idea is that from rock bridge rd. you will take several turns and wander down towards doe branch creek, you will find yourself on an ancient overgrown forest rd. There are numerous forest roads through this area. The correct forest road will follow doe branch and slowly rise above it so the small creek is on your right in something of a valley. Eventually you will need to break left and run somewhat parallel to the Tuckasegee river. Then take a sharp right off the forest road bed and go straight down through steep terrain, you will be dumped out into the river bed. Scramble down stream a few hundred feet to the base of the wall. There are quite a few spur trails and abandoned forest road beds there are likely multiple ways to get there.
Hiking through the gorge itself is extremely dangerous due to dam releases, this is NOT a good place to play in the river.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 6.7 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Bonas Defeat

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Bonas Defeat :
Straight Through the Heart   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 350'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Bonas Defeat

Featured Route For Bonas Defeat

Straight Through the Heart 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  North Carolina : Bonas Defeat
This route's start is fairly close to the river bed, it will likely be one of the first climbs you come to as you come out of the river. One bolt is visible from the start. If you are standing in the river bed looking at the face there is only one obvious blackened groove on the Bonas Defeat wall which this route follows. On the left middle of the wall.A handful of cams are useful, in particular I think a green or blue alien protects a few dirty moderate moves before the fir...[more]   Browse More Classics in North Carolina

Photos of Bonas Defeat Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mmmmmm......
Mmmmmm......
Rock Climbing Photo: Many many overhangs to play on........
Many many overhangs to play on........
Rock Climbing Photo: Bonas Defeat approach GPS tracks. Park somewhere a...
BETA PHOTO: Bonas Defeat approach GPS tracks. Park somewhere a...
Rock Climbing Photo: walkin in the river bed
walkin in the river bed
Rock Climbing Photo: swami styling up P3 BG
swami styling up P3 BG
Rock Climbing Photo: Tuckasegee river bed
Tuckasegee river bed
Rock Climbing Photo: looking down
looking down
Rock Climbing Photo: good luck, there are a bunch of turns and splits i...
good luck, there are a bunch of turns and splits i...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bona's Defeat wall Blackened groove P3 seen in...
Bona's Defeat wall Blackened groove P3 seen in...

Comments on Bonas Defeat Add Comment
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By Scott Phil
From: NC
Sep 5, 2016
Thanks for adding these routes. It is rumored that they were first climbed in the 1980s.

Can't help with the names of the routes, but the cliff face is "Bonas Defeat" (with no apostrophe). It was named after a local hunting dog who had a boney ass. He did meet his demise chasing a deer over the cliff. Apparently his owner taught him to do this to save on ammunition. But there was that one time that Bonas got too close to catching the deer and they both fell.
By McLovin
Sep 5, 2016
Thanks for the input, I will keep the updates going as they roll in.

Thanks for shedding light on the real story behind Bonas defeat.

I would guess Blackened Streak has the original bolts from the 80's
The other route has nice stainless.

Next time I am out there, I'm gonna bring the machete and make a realistic trail.
By Jeff Mekolites
From: ATL GA
Sep 6, 2016
I don't know if you would want to call these "sport" routes. Yes they have bolts, but they are not your typical sport routes. They are very traditional in character. Bolts used where protection is not available. Plus if you need a handful of cams - again probably not a sport route.
By McLovin
Sep 6, 2016
only blackened groove was listed as sport and I made mention of carrying a light rack, regardless, the bolts need replacing and are worth backing up.
By Jeff Mekolites
From: ATL GA
Sep 6, 2016
Yeah...still missing the point. These, as a number of bolted slab routes, are not sport routes and the information on the route and main page lists "blackened groove" or whatever your re-callling it as a sport route. Just because it has bolts doesn't make it a sport route.
By McLovin
Sep 6, 2016
updated to trad/mixed route.

I would be more than happy to update it with the correct name please pass that info along. I have no desire to rename others routes but I also don't have that info available to me.

Scott Phil, I hope it is ok I copied your text on how the wall got it's name.
By Scott Phil
From: NC
Sep 11, 2016
You're welcome, McLovin. I've hiked through the gorge many times over the years, but have not yet climbed any of the routes on Bonas Defeat.

If the river ever begins to rise while you are in the gorge, get to high ground ASAP. No matter which side of the river you are on you will probably have a heinous bushwhack ahead of you.
By jeep gaskin
Nov 30, 2016
it's all together possible that bob rotert or peter young visited bonas defeat in the 70's while they were in school at western. whit heuerman and monty reagan did a route they thought was the first ascent of the cliff in the mid 80's. the picture of the petzle self drives and steel biners look alot more like doc baynes work than monty or whit. i don't recall either of them using self drives. buddy price might be able to clarify since he would have been doc's likely partner.
walking the river has been a common adventure hike for at least a decade.
By Bill Mulvey
Jan 31, 2017
Monte Reagan and I did that route in 79 or 80. At the time there were no bolts on it and we did not place any bolts ourselves. To my knowledge neither Peter or Bobby had climbed it as we all climbed together during that time. We shared info on new routes and I don't remember them mentioning it. The first belay was with nuts and the belay for the last pitch was an unanchored stance on a large moss pad with water running down from the pitch above and under it. We simu-climbed the last pitch to finish the route as we ran out of rope. Thinking it was a first accent we named it "Straight through the Heart."
By Rick Carpenter
From: Kenai, AK
May 28, 2017
The route climbing area is pretty easy to find and the bouldering potential is almost limitless. The lines down here are fantastic and contain some of the best roof climbing in the state. There are plenty of moderate to hard lines established (with plenty of hard projects) which may be posted at some point. Pretty rad location.

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