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Bombs over Tokyo (1st pitch) 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Vern Clevenger, Claude Fiddler
Page Views: 8,220
Submitted By: 426 on Apr 14, 2008

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A closer view.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


Meter your energy over an awkward bulge and slanting crack. Keep milking the continually narrowing crack until your pinkies bleed. Keep a sharp eye out for footholds, its Tuolumne!


50' right of Cooke Book, up on the ledges past West Crack. Rap/lower unless you got aiders or are ready for 11d R hideousness.


Many thin to about 2"...bolted anchor.

Photos of Bombs over Tokyo (1st pitch) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Just about to the anchors.
Just about to the anchors.
Rock Climbing Photo: tallmark515 in the crack.
tallmark515 in the crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Standing atop the crack, size 42.5 shoe for refere...
BETA PHOTO: Standing atop the crack, size 42.5 shoe for refere...
Rock Climbing Photo: The obvious line ! looks rad !
BETA PHOTO: The obvious line ! looks rad !
Rock Climbing Photo: Stellar Jam Session!
Stellar Jam Session!

Comments on Bombs over Tokyo (1st pitch) Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 3, 2012
By Greg DeMatteo
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Apr 16, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

One of the great Tuolumne cracks (there are some!). The rest of the route looms overhead like an enigmatic shadow, but this first pitch is well worth doing more than once.
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
May 8, 2008

I agree, terrific crack. Could be as good as Mr. Natural if only a bit longer.

I fell on my OS attempt a few moves below the anchor when I slotted my fingers directly into the face of a small frog. Yikes! pullback reaction and off I went. My highest pro (a BD micro stopper) pulled and a blue TCU caught me 10 ft later.

Lingered at the anchor looking at the spooky start to the next pitch...
By Nick Stayner
From: Wymont Kingdom
Aug 9, 2008

FA Vern Clevenger/Claude Fiddler. Don't know the history, but these guys at least got the first and second pitches.
By Greg Barnes
Feb 13, 2009

When you're at the anchor check out the 5.11d R pitch. This slab-up-a-seam pitch is one of the real psychological/technical testpieces of the era - Vern Clevenger whipped off this pitch over the roof/dihedral edge onto an RP - which held! The fixed pin is a #1 knifeblade, which we replaced (the old #1 knifeblade was very rusty).

The 3rd pitch was attempted many many times by Clevenger and friends, and a second variation was even bolted (never-redpointed low 5.13?), and they even blew out a new 1/4" bolt while working the variation. Bachar got the FFA at 5.12c, and Gullich and Schneider got ascents (maybe one other?).
By Joe Dawson
Jul 13, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is a fantastic pitch. It has varied jamming, fun moves, and good pro. I found a 00 TCU protected the last eight feet very well, although I am sure you could get a nut in up there.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jul 15, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Wow, great pitch. Above the roof the crack goes from green camalot all the way down to purple c3. Some serious tips action! While no move is particularly hard, placing gear quickly builds the pump.
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Sep 27, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Starts off with awkward 5.9 up a corner to an exciting 5.10 roof move. Above the roof is where the business starts, keep you feet in the crack until you must use the face. Fortunately once the crack peters out a few face features appear.

A great route, the crack is definitely sustained 5.10.
By slim
Jul 13, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

great pitch with nice rock and excellent climbing. i kept running into that 'barely too tight for a blue tcu but purple tcu is umbrella-ed' size of crack. i lost count of the number of times i took the blue off my rack, and then put it back on. between my body positioning and the dark, slightly irregular crack i had to work to get a few stoppers that i knew were good. thank god of the feet. if these weren't there it would be substantially harder.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jul 28, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The first time I climbed this, I climbed it with my right foot in the crack and my left foot on the crappy footholds... and it felt 10+. Second time I walked both feet up the crack, with my body to the right. 1000x easier and it felt 10a :)

Gear: Doubles from small cams to #2, one #3. Set of nuts.
By Phil Esra
Jul 23, 2012

The pitch will accept bigger gear (I placed a #2), but the crux top half requires small cams and/or medium or small nuts. Offsets if ya got 'em.
By x15x15
Aug 10, 2012

i have found that the locks are so good, it don't matter where the feet go. This is a straight forward climb with great gear. i go with soft 10c...
By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Sep 3, 2012

Thought this was harder than Serenity Crack. For me the finger jams on serenity were bomber compared to the top half of this climb..but the feet were a lot better on this one. Super awesome climb though. Loved the roof move!!

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