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Bombs Bursting 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: John Bronaugh, Ron Snider, 1982
Page Views: 1,997
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Oct 12, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (58)
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Going right at the roof.


Stem into the corner and discover that the apparent hand crack is not deep enough for good solid jams. The good news is that it does take good gear. And the crux is thankfully short.

Once under the roof you have three options:
1) SECOND BEST OPTION- Place a good nut or cam in the left crack around the roof and sling it long. Climb up, staying left
2) BEST OPTION- Place gear in same place as option one, then climb past the roof slightly left of center on big holds. Solid climbing and fairly well protected.
3) WORST OPTION?- I have not climbed the crack to the right, but it looks harder and less fun than the center route.

After the roof you have a similar choice, but none are good. The standard path is straight up the very friable left facing flake. Be forewarned! In the summer there is usually a wasp nest in the flake just before the top out.

This is a worthy route, it just has a few detracting factors, such as the poor rock quality in topping out and the presence of wasps most of hte summer.


From American Crack follow the lower ledge right around a buttress and past Route 48 to the next dihedral. It has a roof at 2/3 height.

There is some sort of fixed anchor, but don't count on anything. Worst case scenario: scramble left over the massive boulder and rappel from American Crack anchors.


Standard RRG rack

Photos of Bombs Bursting Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The late Terry Kindred at the roof of Bombs Bursti...
The late Terry Kindred at the roof of Bombs Bursti...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lower crack is much shallower than you'd expect
Lower crack is much shallower than you'd expect
Rock Climbing Photo: Bombs Bursting
Bombs Bursting

Comments on Bombs Bursting Add Comment
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By Chuck Parks
From: Atlanta, GA
May 17, 2011

I went right around the roof, and it was great! Good protection, fun moves, and it adds a secondary crux similar to the main crux (only a bit more exposed). You can continue all the way up the main corner system to the top, and it's no harder than 5.8. This gives a bit more breathing room between you and the wasps.
By Chuck Parks
From: Atlanta, GA
May 17, 2011

There are now bolted anchors with chains and rings above the regular flake finish. Watch out for loose rocks coming down when people scramble up the ledge to the anchors, and when you pull your rope.
By Drake Pregnall
From: Morehead, KY
Mar 19, 2012

Exiting the roof to the right is for sure the way to go. Really fun and exposed. Less than obvious placements, so get a nice rest in below the roof so you're not pumped trying to find a place to shove a cam. Also agree about tiny pieces of loose rock raining down from the top out. Helmets for belayers no doubt.
By Matt Baer
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 14, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Crux is definitely the first 20 or so feet all hand and foot jams. Then pulling the roof is sweet and then continuing up to some new high anchors on a huge rock on the party ledge.

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