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Bombs Away T 
Kleenex T 
Superstition Curley var. T 
Wee Chimney, The T 

Bombs Away 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Jim Waugh, Rick Donnelly
Season: Anytime
Page Views: 150
Submitted By: sean peters on Jan 22, 2015

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BETA PHOTO:

PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is long and pumpy. Although it looks like the crux is down low the difficulty increases as you pass the first bolt. The first bolt is around 20 feet up the pocketed face with the potential for a bad landing if you miss the clip. You can place gear in the pockets to limit the runouts between bolts. We had plans to lead this route but after seeing the bolt spacing, the slight overhanging nature and some loose stuff midway up the face we opted for a top rope. It was probably our wisest decision that day--it felt hard, harder than most 5.10's on similar rock in the area.

Location 

Look for the first bolt about 20 feet up, the fourth bolt can not be seen from the ground. There are anchor bolts on the top and you can rappel from here or continue to the true summit via Wee Chimney route. One rope only.

Protection 

There are four bolts on the face and lots of pockets for small cams or tricams to fiddle in for further protection.


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