REI Community
Wedding Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Boltless Baetylus T,TR 
Contortion TR 
Deranged Sailor T,TR 
Dirty Girdle T 
High Tide Crack T 
Just Face It... T 
Lost Sailor T 
Low Tide Crack T 
Never Say Nada TR 
North Face (Direct) T 
Pandiculation TR 
Psycho Path T 
Riptide T 
Seamstress  TR 
Secret Passage TR 
Shellfish Roof T 
Terete Arête T,TR 
Tim's Jam aka Zig Zag T 
Tombstone Stone Slab, The TR 
Wedding Night Lingerie T 
Unsorted Routes:

Boltless Baetylus 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: First top rope ascent unknown
Page Views: 245
Submitted By: Evan Wisheropp on Aug 15, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Boltless Baetylus; The north east arête on Weddin...

Description 

This is the north east arête on Wedding Rock, it is the first arête you run into on your left as you make your way towards the North spires. You are climbing directly on the arête most of the time, and reaching left to place pro. The route is mostly 5.7, then with a short 5.9 crux near the top with a mostly decent-ish #00 tcu nearby, if you have a load limiter or screamer, this is the place to use it.

Top rope access is along a small trail 30 yards climbers left of the route near a little vista point. The top rope anchor uses some less than ideal cracks, but is super solid with a large nest of gear. It is also a smart idea to at least inspect the top before leading this route to ensure you bring the gear to set a solid anchor after leading it.

If this had bolts it would be a classic beginner route.

Protection 

Small cams!

The gear can be finicky, so be attentive. I tried several pieces, and the most solid arrangement gear I could get after climbing it a few times was:
#0-1 offset mastercam
#00-0 offset mastercam
#00 TCU
#00 Master cam


Comments on Boltless Baetylus Add Comment
Show which comments
By Evan Wisheropp
Mar 9, 2015

More research informs me that Mark Butterworth's Lemon Aid Crack 5.9 is the crack just eight feet left of this arete.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About