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Redgarden - Tower Two
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
10,000 Leagues T 
After The Gold Rush T 
Avoid the Rush T 
Between Heaven and Earth  T 
Bolter's Lament T 
Bolting for Glory T 
Briny Deep, The T 
Cave Pitch T 
Centaur T 
Contest, The S 
Diving Board, The T 
Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) S 
Element X T 
Fools Learn TR 
Genius Loci S 
Ghoul's Turn T,TR 
Green Willow Wall T,S 
Inset, The T 
Jules Verne T 
Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation T 
King Tut T 
Le Void T 
Lene's Dream T 
Love Minus Zero T 
Naked Edge, The T 
Natural Mystic  T 
No Lo Contendere T,S,TR 
Old Bad Aid Crack T 
One Way Out T 
Orifophobia T 
Physical Graffiti S 
Plastic Jesus T 
Predator T,S 
PsychGillLogical T 
Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent T,S 
Rosy Crucifixion T 
Scratch and Sniff T,S,TR 
Seams Beyond T 
Seams Beyond Variation T 
Seize of Holds T 
Serpent, The T 
Shasta T 
Sickness Unto Death S 
Slots of Fun T 
Slow Train Coming T,S 
Superlink, The T 
T2 T 
T2 Direct Finish T 
Touch 'N' Go T 
Weeping Willow T 
Wild Kingdom T,S 
Wingless Victory S 

Bolter's Lament 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c A2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 200', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c A2 [details]
FA: Michael Tobias, Brian Robertson and others, circa 1970
Page Views: 249
Submitted By: Chris N on Sep 3, 2015

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  • Description 

    This has two short pitches of bolts with hook moves in between and 7 or 8 hook moves that are scary but easy. The last pitch was free to the Upper Ramp, it went a 5.9-. Follow the easiest way up; perhaps the 2nd pitch of T2?

    I did this route April 5, 1980. Maybe the 1/4" bolts are gone or toast by now. This could be A5 depending how you feel about 45 year old 1/4" bolts.

    Location 

    Look for old bolts going up and out the roof just to the left of Jules Verne.

    To get down, downclimb the Upper Ramp to a tree, then do a double rope rappel to the bottom.

    Protection 

    Mostly hooks for where the bolts were missing and a free rack for the free climbing above.


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