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This 5 pitch route is on the southwest side of the rock just on the other side of the crack that you can see from the road.
Pitch 1, 5.9-, 4 bolts & anchor. Follow crack system to the top of the pillar. The first bolt is a little high, but solid easy crack climbing leads to it.
Pitch 2, 5.11a-, 5 bolts & anchor. This is the crux pitch and offers a little bit of everything. Start by stepping off the pillar on to the main face of the cliff, and work up to the base of the overhang. There are 2 parallel cracks to help with pulling the roof. Don't underestimate the face climb above the roof. You can skip the first set of anchors and do pitch 3 using standard 60m rope to save a belay stop.
Pitch 3, 4th class, one bolt & anchor. It angles slightly up and right.
Pitch 4, 5.10b, 7 bolts & anchor. This has fantastic granite slab climbing requiring some delicate feet.
Pitch 5, 5.10d, 7 bolts & the top has no anchor. It starts slabby but gets vertical with just enough of a crack to make it go.
You will need to walk off the top to the northeast & uphill. FA: 7-6-15, Hunter Winegarner & Bob Robertson.
It is on the Southwest face. The first bolt is about 12 feet up. Looking up from the start, you can see the overhang crux of pitch 2 with two cracks in it.
Hike in from the cairned on side of the road. No trail has been established yet; however, several cairns have been placed through the easiest approach. It takes about a 30-45 minute approach, down the valley, under the power lines, and to the base of the rock.
The elevation is 8700 feet, & GPS at the parking area is 39-06.183N, 105-21.674W. The GPS near the start is: 39-05.909N/105-21.084W. The GPS at top: 39-05.911N/105-21.072W.
Quickdraws, everything is well-protected with great bolt placement.
Pulling the crux on the first ascent.
BETA PHOTO: Bolt Hunter topo.
By J. Albers
Jul 31, 2015
Thanks for the post, but one question...
If there is no anchor at the top, is there a tree or do you need a small selection of gear?
By Bob Robertson
Aug 1, 2015
There's a horn up & right that you can sling.
By Aaron Birch
Jun 12, 2016
Great climb yesterday! Beautiful views and challenging slab. The crux is a blast! Last pitch definitely challenging on the top section I like to call "the wave". Slinging the horn at the top was a perfect anchor. Cairns super helpful on the trail, and with the creek running, had plenty of water to drink.