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BETA PHOTO: Bolt Hunter topo.
This 5 pitch route is on the southwest side of the rock just on the other side of the crack that you can see from the road.
Pitch 1, 5.9-, 4 bolts & anchor. Follow crack system to the top of the pillar. The first bolt is a little high, but solid easy crack climbing leads to it.
Pitch 2, 5.11a-, 5 bolts & anchor. This is the crux pitch and offers a little bit of everything. Start by stepping off the pillar on to the main face of the cliff, and work up to the base of the overhang. There are 2 parallel cracks to help with pulling the roof. Don't underestimate the face climb above the roof. You can skip the first set of anchors and do pitch 3 using standard 60m rope to save a belay stop.
Pitch 3, 4th class, one bolt & anchor. It angles slightly up and right.
Pitch 4, 5.10b, 7 bolts & anchor. This has fantastic granite slab climbing requiring some delicate feet.
Pitch 5, 5.10d, 7 bolts & the top has no anchor. It starts slabby but gets vertical with just enough of a crack to make it go.
You will need to walk off the top to the northeast & uphill. FA: 7-6-15, Hunter Winegarner & Bob Robertson.
It is on the Southwest face. The first bolt is about 12 feet up. Looking up from the start, you can see the overhang crux of pitch 2 with two cracks in it.
Hike in from the cairned on side of the road. No trail has been established yet; however, several cairns have been placed through the easiest approach. It takes about a 30-45 minute approach, down the valley, under the power lines, and to the base of the rock.
The elevation is 8700 feet, & GPS at the parking area is 39-06.183N, 105-21.674W. The GPS near the start is: 39-05.909N/105-21.084W. The GPS at top: 39-05.911N/105-21.072W.
Quickdraws, everything is well-protected with great bolt placement.
Pulling the crux on the first ascent.
By J. Albers
Jul 31, 2015
Thanks for the post, but one question...
If there is no anchor at the top, is there a tree or do you need a small selection of gear?
By Bob Robertson
Aug 1, 2015
There's a horn up & right that you can sling.
By Aaron Birch
Jun 12, 2016
Great climb yesterday! Beautiful views and challenging slab. The crux is a blast! Last pitch definitely challenging on the top section I like to call "the wave". Slinging the horn at the top was a perfect anchor. Cairns super helpful on the trail, and with the creek running, had plenty of water to drink.