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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Kris Kline, Eddie Begoon (1985)
Season: 50 degrees or below
Page Views: 2,071
Submitted By: ChanVan Schaack on Feb 2, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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After pulling the boulder problem start, only to g...


Boldfingers is a bad-ass route on great rock- classic NC hard trad. The climbing up to the crux is pumpy and fun, and the crux seam requires doing hard moves on small but good gear. While somewhat contrived, as there is an obvious weakness to the right, the direct start is also really cool (unprotected highball v4 boulder problem to a stance). Either way you do it, the route is killer.


The route is just to the left of Static Klingon and Black Planet. It's the obvious crack system heading up the steep golden wall.


small cams up through a number 1 camalot with nuts (bring micros!) There is a bomber two-bolt anchor at the top.

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By Joe Virtanen
From: Asheville, NC
Dec 28, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

Probably my favorite hard route at the Bald so far. The climbing is super sporty and the crux sequence is on very textured, bomber rock. You could place some small wires and even a decent cam in the seam mid-crux, but I elected to place a couple of bomber mid-size pieces at the great horizontal and bust through.

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