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Bolder Problem in Space (free) 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: FA Forrest Gardner, Todd Wells, FFA Tom Caldwell, Eric Dudley
New Route: Yes
Season: Any
Page Views: 426
Submitted By: TomCaldwell on Oct 24, 2016

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Tom Caldwell just below the start of the newly-fre...

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Description 

Bolder Problem in Space was originally done at A4 by Forrest Gardner and Todd Wells. It is an intense aid route with few to no repeats. With FA permission, a free variation was added on lead. The original route aided out a roof crack, whereas the new free variation continues traversing right to the prow. Expect insane exposure and some tough bouldering on great edges.

Climb Boulder Problem in the Sky's first pitch and belay at the bolted anchor. Move straight up off of the belay and climb the first 25' of Bat Shit Crazy (10+). At the roof, instead of traversing left like all of the other climbs, traverse right. Be sure to extend the gear at the beginning of the climb. Move out right past some good gear to get to some good edges and the first bolt. Clip the first bolt and make a technical sequence to reach better edges (11). Continue traversing to a large stance and the second bolt. A little further right and you reach a blunt prow that takes natural pro. Follow the prow until the end. From here, the final boulder problem begins. Make a hard move right and clip the bolt at a decent stance. Blast straight up until you reach the good finger rail and ride it right to the end (11+). Make one last tough move to exit onto the slab above.

Note: Bolts 1 and 3 can be cleaned by the follower after completing most of the hard sequences. This will prevent large pendulums due to the traversing nature of the route. If you or your second is not comfortable at the grade, it will help to have some prussik or ascenders. Any falls not next to gear will be into space. Lowering off in the middle of the climb is not advised since the rope may not reach the ledge or ground below. At the last bolt, you can clip the trail rope into the draw. Then if you fall, you can use the trail rope as aid to get back to the bolt. This will prevent needing rope ascending gear for the leader.

Location 

This route has the same start as Boulder Problem in the Sky off the nice ledge. The finish is at the end of the prow in the prominent black streak. A big airy rappel gets you back down.

Protection 

Cams from #2 Metolius to #3 camalot (double #1 C4), nuts, a couple of quickdraws, and some longer slings. There is a two bolt anchor where the climb exits. 2 60m ropes are needed to rappel back to the Southwest Corner Area.


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