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Boing-oing-oing 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Clay Watson, Mike Perkins and Gregg Kirchhoff, 2010
New Route: Yes
Season: First thing in the morning
Page Views: 97
Submitted By: tenesmus on May 14, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Boing Topo

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This might be the most fun route of the crag. Begin as for Early Bird on twin cracks, taking good but precise gear including an in-obvious #4 camalot-sized piece. Look for a left-slanting crack that turns the corner around the arete and get ready to get after it as you move around and into the shallow dihedral on the southern face. Follow this crack system up to the ledge and anchor where The Worm ends. The crux seems to be based on the sequence you find getting established and protected in that corner.

Location 

About 100 feet up from Strewn Masters of Gore.

Protection 

Nuts, purple tcu through #4 camalot. (extra yellow tcu, .75 camalot or equivalent)


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By John Steiger
May 27, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

You owe me Ten. Got on this 6:30am today, before work (brrr), and had quite the, um, adventure. Popped a hold, fell twenty feet, then found the entry move into the hanging dihedral to be a bit harder than advertised. Great position, but it’ll need a bunch more ascents to clean up to three stars – definitely has the potential though. Early Bird looks awesome, but it’ll have to wait for a good night’s sleep and warmer climes.
By tenesmus
May 29, 2011

Thanks for the feedback John. So sorry you took a winger and hope you're all right. I wonder if the hold you broke is near the top of the first crux? There is a little flake we debated cleaning that makes a nice jug to exit that section. It felt solid with a tap of the hammer so I didn't push it.

I'm a bit conservative with running things out and bring my A-game for the start of this. You can sew it up and there's no denying the gear is tricky. I usually put in 4 pieces on the bottom 25? feet or so, but there is more/different gear than I described. Give me a call and fill me in. I'd be happy to go back and clean it up more.

As for the 3-stars, I just think its a natural line with great movement. You did the 3rd ascent, so of course it'll take some cleaning.

Finally, pulling into and through that dihedral is only .10c if you find the right holds. The fa was hilarious because I got all worked up, climbing into/out of that dihedral a bunch of times as I searched for gear and a way through. But the cool part of climbing is working it out and its all there. Until I saw it, I was feeling like the moves were .11-? or so. But then once it opened up there was some hooting and laughing at how obvious and enormously juggy it really is.

Maybe I'm wrong but it kind of feels like the first few times I did Black and White, John and Mary in that as I realized how good the rests were and how juggy everything is, it got a lot easier. Boing is like that only maybe a bit easier?
By zoso
Jun 2, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Pretty stellar route. The shared start with Early Bird is fantastic, as is the crux of Boing. Makes me wish I was good enough to do EB. The 5.8-5.9ish face after the dihedral was kicks too.
By tenesmus
Jan 26, 2014

I've gotten more feedback since this is cleaned and up its is probably .10d or .11a. Personally, I think this is easier and far, far less sustained than Tick Fever.

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