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Boiler Maker 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Luke Douglas, Greg Martinez 11-05-06
Page Views: 3,956
Submitted By: Shaun Greene on Jul 13, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (98)
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BETA PHOTO: Great photo of Jord - showing vert and clipping li...


Most people feel that the crux is near the end of the route as one nears the chains after the last bolt. Good steep climbing reminiscent of climbing on the pile in BCC. Well protected, although still a bit dirty. This is the right most (southern most) route on the upper Ambush Wall.


Follow the directions to the lower ambush wall. As you are facing the routes on the lower wall simply take the trail to the left of the lower ambush wall. You will see a short but stout 5.11d on your right as you pass on by the lower ambush wall. The trail is steep but short. Keep heading up the loose scree trail until the climbing becomes visible to hikers right hand side. You will see the steep routes on an orangish-tannish colored wall. Approach time is around five minutes from the BCC road.


Standard rack of quickdraws will suffice. No more than 10 draws needed. I believe that the route is six or seven bolts. Chains are placed a bit more to the right than I expected.

Photos of Boiler Maker Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle of Boiler Maker route
Middle of Boiler Maker route
Rock Climbing Photo: Reaching the chains
Reaching the chains
Rock Climbing Photo: A view of Boiler Maker. Matt F is at the top with ...
BETA PHOTO: A view of Boiler Maker. Matt F is at the top with ...

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By Luke Douglas
Jul 21, 2007

FA Luke Douglas, Greg Martinez 11/05/06
By Michael MacFadden
Jun 29, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a great route for some one to start lead on some 5.10 overhung routes. Overhung but bomber hands and feet. Pulling up on the last bolt you can't see the chains over the last bulge, but they are right there only about 4 feet up and to the right of the last bolt.
By Ty Meadows
From: Moab, UT
Jun 29, 2009

I thought this was a fun and well bolted route but clipping the chains is very akward! They need to be either raised another foot so your able to pull the roof, or lowered another foot to prevent rope rub.
By Woodson
From: Park City, Ut.
Jul 19, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Agreed Ty.. definitely rap off after cleaning the anchor, and save your rope. The chains need to be a few links longer to hang over the edge. A great route, lots of good side pull moves.
By Pat Welsh
From: SLC, UT
Jul 28, 2009

Good climb accompanied by a healthy pump. Hardest move was definitely getting in a good position to clip the anchors, luckily I am 6'4''. Located on upper wall up steep and short trail.
By Mark Lewis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 9, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

As others have mentioned, bring long runners for the anchors - if you don't it's possible to cross load your anchor 'biners over the edge, or rub your rope raw while on TR. Fun route! Poor anchor placement. 6 bolts to the anchors.
By Gabriel Tallent
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 2, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Very comfortably bolted, close enough to Z clip bolts. I would definitely encourage other new leaders to try and fire up this route. I've seen a number of people take just below the chains, because they're not immediately visible from the last bolt, but you should commit and keep climbing for the red point. It is only one or two more secure moves to chains and the route is so well protected you have nothing to loose––the first time I climbed it I came up left of the chains, and it was an easy single move right to them. I agree that this is a very friendly route if you want to start leading some overhangs.
By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
Apr 24, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Crux was clipping the chains. Kind of an awkward climb.. Enjoyed the 5.10 to the left much more.
By Laronicus Lehmanold
From: Salt Lake, UT
Sep 8, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Awkward route the whole way through. Chain placement is a problem. Needs to be moved so you can send the roof.
By justa beater
From: sandy utah
Jun 10, 2016
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Definitely not a 10, more like 9-, maybe a solid 9 depending on how tall you are. Also very overbolted, there are 3 unnecessary bolts, 2 with perfect gear placements right next to them and one on the tip of a horn shaped rock that if if blew if you whipped on it would do some damage.

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