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Boiled in Oil 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Dornsife & Chazz Spaeth
Page Views: 42
Submitted By: Refuge Jared on Sep 12, 2016

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Description 

CAUTION: The tree next to this wall is a hazard while lowering AND belaying. Lower carefully to avoid the sharp nubs of the trees removed limbs--they will leave bruises. And stand clear of the tree when belaying so that you arent pulled up through the sharp edges of the removed limbs during a lead fall.

Far less featured than Stretch Rack 5.10b (much safer falls too). 4 bolts lead you straight up to open cold shuts at the anchor.

Start with smearing and a massive undercling. The first bolt is high enough that an injury is very likely if you fall before clipping. So, don't fall. If youre leading 11b you shouldn't have a problem with the first clip, but just do everyone a favor and stick-clip or take a good look at the moves before you start.

The crux can be identified from the ground, just after the 2nd bolt. Protection is at your waist for the hard moves, followed by bomber holds that run out to the 3rd bolt.

Location 

All the routes at Torture Chamber share a set of open cold shuts. Stretch Rack is the center route, beginning directly beneath the anchors.

Protection 

4 bolts. Open cold shuts at the anchor.


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