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Boi-oi-oi-ing! 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 340'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Barry Oswick, Urmas Franosch, Eric Sorenson. 09/03
Season: Summer
Page Views: 9,672
Submitted By: outdooreric on Feb 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (50)
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Aerili staying between the lines.

Description 

P1 (5.10a): Climbs up the right side of a giant wedged block about 25 feet off the ground. Continue up double cracks to the highest ledge before the upper headwall. Bolted anchor at 85 feet.

P2 (5.10a): Start out slightly up and left of the anchor and get ready for 165 feet of hand jamming! Generally there are two or three cracks to choose from. When in doubt, stay to the left. Bolted anchor.

P3 (5.9): Not recommended due to loose rock and friable holds. If you do climb this, we left some fixed junk to rap from, beware.

Location 

On the orange tower that faces east. This climb actually has somewhat of a southerly aspect.
To get down with one rope, do a short rappel off the right side of the wall (East) from the top of pitch 2. This brings you to the anchor for "Do I Make You Horny?", then do another 100 foot rappel to get back to the first pitch anchor.

Protection 

Doubles in cams from fingers to fist. Some may want a couple extra hand or thin hand sized pieces.


Photos of Boi-oi-oi-ing! Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo of the entire route (2 pitch)
BETA PHOTO: Photo of the entire route (2 pitch)
Rock Climbing Photo: Second Pitch, Boi-oi-oi-ing 5.10a
Second Pitch, Boi-oi-oi-ing 5.10a
Rock Climbing Photo: Cracks!!!
Cracks!!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Luke jamming up to the belay
Luke jamming up to the belay
Rock Climbing Photo: Keri Davis on the second pitch splitters
Keri Davis on the second pitch splitters
Rock Climbing Photo: Keri Davis approaching the pitch 2 anchors on perf...
Keri Davis approaching the pitch 2 anchors on perf...
Rock Climbing Photo: Brad Johnson-Cox leading Pitch 1.
Brad Johnson-Cox leading Pitch 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Last pitch of Boi-oi-oi-ing. Agree with the commen...
Last pitch of Boi-oi-oi-ing. Agree with the commen...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Business!
The Business!
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1 of Boi-oi-oing.  The crux is a bit past th...
Pitch 1 of Boi-oi-oing. The crux is a bit past th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Orange Pillar. Boi-oi-oi-ing is the main crack spl...
BETA PHOTO: Orange Pillar. Boi-oi-oi-ing is the main crack spl...

Comments on Boi-oi-oi-ing! Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 10, 2017
By Kevin Ross
From: San Francisco, CA
Jun 26, 2017

CONDITION REPORT 
Was up in the Patricia Bowl area this weekend (6/25/2017) - all of the routes look dry but there's still 25 feet of snow at the base of Boi-oi-oi-ing (and many other routes), along with a somewhat sketchy bergschrund guarding the wall. We decided against trying to get on the route. If you are harder than us, it might be possible to cut steps down the bergschrund to access the route. Bring crampons! Sons of Liberty is good to go though.
By Tavis Ricksecker
Oct 21, 2007

The first two pitches are excellent, sustained, aesthetic climbing. Tight hands, ugh! :)
By BryanM
Dec 8, 2008

Completely agree about the last pitch. We did it anyway. Left some stoppers to rap from in '05. Just to back up a hex that had some questionable webbing. I'll post a pic of the last pitch.
By Thrutchtastic
From: Sparks, NV
Sep 25, 2009

Fantastic climb! When rapping down from the top of pitch two, go straight down the face that the bolts are on (not down the climb itself--even with a 70m you won't make it to the P1 belay) to find rap anchors.
By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 8, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Perfect hands, woo! :)
By Karsten Duncan
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 18, 2010

The hands are perfect if you are a fairy-nymph. For us normal people they are bit tight. There is some grittyness to the route but has some great climbing in a spectacular setting.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jul 24, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Exceptional route and a beautiful line.

P1 - Shorter than P2, but still has some gitty up.
P2 - The money pitch. This thing is long, and at 11,000 feet seems even longer. Probably around 140-150 feet. Very sustained climbing, with few rests in the first 100'. Once you get below the big spike sticking out, rests begin appearing. Save a couple #3 camalots for the top third (I placed one below the spike, and moving up the wide crack above the spike).

I had a standard rack (double thin to #3 camalot) + 2 extra #1s and 2 extra #2s. I was able to find lots of spots for non-handsized gear on P2, but I still ended up placing all the #1s and #2s. YMMV.

Descent: Rap straight down the nose of the buttress, don't drop into the corner on the opposite side of the route. I made that mistake and nearly passed the rap anchors. The first rap is short, like 30-40 feet down to some mussy hooks. Then a 100' rap down to the P1 anchors (be sure to avoid getting the rope in the crack). And then another rap to the ground. The Mammoth Climbing Book (Marty Lewis) has incorrect descent info - it claims the first rap is 100' and then to rap a different route. Follow the instructions above and all will be good.
By Aaron Liebling
Jul 5, 2013

For those without a guidebook, this climb (and the orange pillar it is on) are quite far right from where the approach path hits the first wall. It is directly above the middle of the lake below the crag. You will know the climb when you see it (both from the pitch descriptions and the two sets of anchors visible).

Also, the anchor atop P1 has no rap rings, only bolts.
By JarydB
Jul 1, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I got my rope badly stuck after the 2nd rappel. With bad weather approaching, I opted to fix the remainder to the first anchor, rap off, and return for it. This is a great route, but those amazing hand cracks will eat up your rope if you aren't careful!
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Sep 15, 2014

P1 anchor for the last rap down consists of bolted beefy rap hangers, to clarify
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Jun 30, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

overall an awesome route! i thought P1 was solid 10a on a technical and physical level, but P2 more on the 5.9 side with endless solid jams and enough breaks to not get worked.

in terms of hand size, many of the jams are in slight flares which means deeper jams for smaller hands and more outward jams for bigger hands (i.e. the rock accommodates a wide range of hand sizes, especially on P2).

.75 and #1 camalots work really well, but there's ample opportunity to place smaller cams and nuts.

the 2nd pitch is one of the best crack pitches i've ever climbed at any grade. steep, long, and beautiful.

By BruceB
From: Reno, NV
Aug 7, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Amazingly good climb, hand jamming ad finitum, although a little tight at times!
Four #1's work great, although other options work too.

3 raps straight down the outer face of the pillar (didn't use the P1 anchor).
By Tomko
From: SANTA CLARA CA
Sep 6, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fixed #2 BD cam under the big block. I clipped it as my first piece.

It was VERY cold climbing on Labor Day weekend. Even with a puffy everyone in my party was chilled. That being said, its brilliant!
By Tom Thomas
From: Pittsburgh
Feb 10, 2017

This climb is not to be missed if you are in the area..

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