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Bog Spavin 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R [details]
FA: Nov 2011
Season: Apr - Nov
Page Views: 24
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on May 17, 2012

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Description 

From the ledge, climb up cracks and flakes, then continue up the slab above, connecting to another series of cracks leading to a brushy shelf under a huge roof system at rope's end.
This route is a Jekyll/Hyde mixture of good climbing and bad, with a lot of runouts along the way. We wanted to access the tasty overhang above, but the late-season sun didn't allow us enough time to grapple with it.

Location 

Near the left side of the highest point of the base of the main face, clamber up a brushy ramp to a tree ledge with a large rectangular flake.
Descent is tricky without double ropes; we made 2 off uninspiring trees (read: saplings) to return to the start.

Protection 

Standard rack and gumption. Tri-cams may help alleviate some of the longer runouts.


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