|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 55'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|Submitted By:||drjman on Mar 10, 2016|
|Comments on Bog of Eternal Stench||Add Comment|
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 19, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
|Slightly awkward start but not in a bad way, just funky for balance which adds to the route vs. detracts. Climbs like a classic NJC route where it feels the holds are facing the wrong way then eases after the 2nd bolt. Greatly overrated, not by letters but a full number.|
Nov 21, 2016
Susan, to be fair to both Geoff Fullerton (faist) and drjman (guidebook author)... Geoff put up his routes in the area 17- 18 years ago and at the time gave me a detailed topo to the routes (the only copy). I went and did them and thought they were all pretty accurately rated and gave the topos and photos to Troy Mayr for his upcoming guidebook and for whatever reason Troy did not include them, or return the info to me.
When drjman came to me about writing a new guide, I told him about Geoff's routes and walked him around them as well as providing info on how to contact Geoff, who now lives in Colorado. When contacted, Geoff couldn't remember the details, names or ratings but still without the benefit of revisiting the area, came up with names and approximate rating, so the routes could be included in the new guide.
My thanks to both Geoff for putting in his routes and recreating lost route info (even in the ratings are a bit off) and to drjman for writing a information based, spray free guide.
With few exceptions, Geoff's routes hadn't seen an ascent since my ascents 17 years ago and would greatly benefit from consensus rating. Go climb Geoff's routes and rate them.
By Rolf Rybak
Nov 22, 2016
|I felt the 4 Horseman was honest at 11A and B of E S was a tad technically harder but not as substaIned. YDS ratings are for the single most hardest move on the route even if it is just a short boulder problem crux. Fun to get an easy tick|