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BOG Man 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tom Howard, Thomas Kelley 1982
Page Views: 3,692
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Nov 16, 2006  with updates from Tom Howard

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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About to pull the final move on P1 of BOG Man.


p1- Scramble up low angle, easy terrain about 20' to a spot where the wall blankens. Clip the bolt and crimp out right (cruxy) past another bolt to a good stance. Reach left and clip a fixed wire (other gear can be placed too). Pull a roof and follow great holds to the lip of the next roof. Place some small gear and fire the crux! End at some fixed stuff with fat rap rings. Either bring up your second and rap or do...

p2- Shoot for the very obvious splitter crack in a large roof. Climb through it and follow a horizontal out left, then move back right across low-angle terrain for the belay.


BOG Man is easy to spot due to the bolts that protect a cruxy traverse down low. It is on the left side of the main tier, left of Airlie Gardens and right of Welcome to Watauga.


On pitch one, nothing above a .5 Camalot is needed (or can even be placed, really).

Pitch two takes a similar range of gear, although definitely carry the .5. A #2 Camalot provides a directional for the second just past the crux.

Photos of BOG Man Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P2 of BOG Man.
P2 of BOG Man.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ron Funderburke nearing the second crux of BOG Man...
Ron Funderburke nearing the second crux of BOG Man...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mary finishing getting into the steepness on P2 of...
Mary finishing getting into the steepness on P2 of...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ron Funderburke on BOG Man's first pitch.
Ron Funderburke on BOG Man's first pitch.

Comments on BOG Man Add Comment
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By Jacob Neathawk
From: Nederland, CO
Nov 17, 2006

Can be done in one long enduro pitch. Make sure you put some long runners on the gear after the end of the "first" pitch, but before the splitter. I do remember placing a bomber #1 Camalot right after the belay where there's a bit of a ledge.
By markowen
May 29, 2008

in search of old timers what does b.o.g. stand for in bog man
By sam.f
From: Santa Cruz, CA
Sep 29, 2009

Tim, isn't it "Bolts On Grandfather"?
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
May 2, 2012

Sam is correct. I believe it was the first bolts placed (that were known) on Grandfather Mountain at the time of the FA.
By Billy Danger
From: Asheville, NC
Jul 1, 2012

To me it makes a lot more sense to combine these two pitches into a single one hundred foot pitch.
By Cameron Cassan
From: Boone, NC
Oct 30, 2015

SPOILER: The gear beta in this description is slightly misleading. I used a #2 after bolts before pulling into the P1 roof traverse. To back up tat at the belay, a .75 or #1 work well. Another .75 is crucial at the end of P2 crack
By Barrett Pauer
From: Brevard, NC
Sep 12, 2016

Both pitches are very worthy! If splitting the pitches up, climb past the fixed belay and build one about 10ft up. Much more comfortable stance!

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