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Body Snatcher 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Jerry Dodrill
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,325
Submitted By: Eric Berghorn on Jun 8, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Sourigno Outsama on Body Snatcher 5/4/13


Sustained vertical face climbing leads past 7 bolts up and left to an exciting finish. Route is somewhat gritty in places but also has some great features, including some interesting horizontal pockets about halfway up.


3rd class scramble up from the base trail to a hidden ledge and belay from the tree 20' feet right of the obvious "Bear Crack" route.


7 bolts to lower off anchor. Can be top-roped by rapping in from chains above at the very top of the cliff.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 30, 2015
By Jerry Dodrill
From: Bodega, CA
Jun 8, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Body Snatcher. A dark story by Stevenson:

5.12a? Hard to say, but that's about right. Pump off the bulge at the top and your belayer will have to catch you (exciting, but safe).
By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Jul 26, 2010

One of the better routes out here. Definite crux low, and then sustained the whole way. A bit of excitement high. I agree with jerry--12A, a touch harder than stone free.
By Vlad S
May 24, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

This route kind of crumbled on me when I tried it last autumn. I think I was at the 2nd bolt, where I had to lock off on a good edge and make a long awkward stretch to a sidepull. The foothold I was on broke and most of my body weight was quickly tranfered to the edge, which started crumbing as well. We didn't have a helmet, so I didn't want to bombard my belayer with choss and I backed off. The edge is probably gone by now. The quality didn't impress me, so I had no desire to try it again - much better rock down and left. After re reading the comments above I have a feeling that I was on the wrong climb, but the bolts were brand new. Please, correct me if I'm wrong.
By Jerry Dodrill
From: Bodega, CA
May 28, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Rock gets better at the third bolt, but yeah, its not Yosemite or anything... Be careful.
By Loose Rocks
Jul 21, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

Harder than Stone Free or Treasure Island. After the short bit of easy climbing near the beginning, it’s on the rest of the way. Beyond the crux that comes right after the easy start there are a couple more hard sections linked by solid sustained climbing in between. The climbing line is pretty clean but the route is still in the “clean up” phase and will become really nice with a little more traffic. Don’t let that keep you away or you’ll miss one of MSH’s better lines.
By Caliza
Aug 25, 2013
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Don't know how I feel about this route, very fun movements on poor rock. The first few bolts were easy enough with decent rock quality after the first bolt, but the very top of this route was chossy and okay at best. A lil heady too given that the bolts are more spaced out up top amongst good holds but they flex and feel like they're going break. Definitely true to the grade though, 5.12a, and harder than Treasure Island. Besides my ranting about the rock quality, fun route and very sustained with a few cruxes throughout. Maybe once it cleans up, it'll be mostly solid rock and harder grade. Then it'll probably be one of the best at the Bear. Belayer should definitely were a helmet, both my partner and I got hit by falling rocks, and my shoulder is still sour from a golf ball sized rock that hit from 50 feet up.
By Caliza
Oct 23, 2013
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Hold broke at the second to last bolt where one of the already little crimps are, turning it into a micro-crimp. Sequence through there is quite a bit harder now, feels like it could be 12a/b now, or just 12b, not sure. A few more big holds might brake, loose and wiggly.
By Tibo
Nov 25, 2013

Another pretty big hold just broke above the fifth bolt. This climb has now two cruxes. It was pretty sustained, now it is even more so :) I think it is a solid 12b.
By Carles Alonso
From: San Francisco
Jun 1, 2014

Today I tried this route and it seems that between the 2nd and 3rd bolt something has broken. Now there a super hard crux in this section. Most probably now it's harder than 5.12b. Anyone that has tried it lately?
The rock is not very solid and while climbing it I broke a couple of not vital holds also.
By Jerry Dodrill
From: Bodega, CA
Jun 2, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Carles, That is the original crux. A hard move up to an undercling pinch. From what I understand, the broken holds have occurred higher on the route. Some folks opt to move slightly left at bolt 5, while others prefer to go straight up, which is harder.
By Vlad S
Aug 30, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I got on it again yesterday and the big choss at the crux is gone. I only broke two smaller footholds and a part of a crimp in addition to something that accidentally came off when I was lowering, so it cleaned up considerably from the chossfest it used to be. The crux is definitely above the second bolt where all the bigger holds have broken off and you have to do a super awkward and unpleasant move to a tiny undercling. By far the hardest moves on the route - the rest is no harder than 11+, but without good rests so gets you really pumped. Hard end of 12b seems fair and probably still the crumbliest route at the cliff. Bring a helmet at least for the belayer. I'll give it one star for the movement in the 2nd half.
By Jerry Dodrill
From: Bodega, CA
Nov 30, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I hadn't been on this in a few years but after all the reports of broken holds wanted to see how much it has changed since the FA. Its true a few holds have crumbled making the route cleaner and slightly more sustained but overall the changes were relatively small. At bolt #5 there are two options you can take. The direct line to bolt #6 is harder while moving left is a little easier. When I did the FA and subsequent ascents I've always moved left to a blind side pull to make the clip which makes for continuous .11+ climbing once you are above the low bouldery crux. The direct line to bolt #6 seems to be where some holds have broken. To be clear, there were never any bigger holds at the lower crux; its always been that hard.
While this route certainly doesn't have the very best rock on the cliff, location and unusually sustained movement (for the area) make for a rewarding send. -Jerry

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