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South Whizz Dome
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Blackout (direct start) T 
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Body Count 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 118'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Falkenstein
Page Views: 57
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Jul 9, 2007

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I've done other Falkenstein routes that I thought were awesome but this rig is not the case...First of all, you have to climb up a 7 foot hand-placed log (A0) and then pull on the first bolt to stand on the log (A0). From this point its a 10+ move to fun 5.9 and an 11a move over a bulge. From the ledge the climbing is totally contrived...The moves off the ledge use holds on Blackout (a classic run-out pitch on the left) but the bolts on Body Count are far to the right. For pretty much the rest of the way, the moves are awkwardly unaesthetic. The climbing is definitely hard but so off character from anything else here.


Many bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

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By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Aug 6, 2009

Jeez Alex, that's kinda harsh! I thought this route was great, but yes, slightly contrived. I wound up moving left onto the other route in the black streak and then way right at one point as well. Still quite fun though, and pretty hard I thought.
By Jonathan Williams
From: Minneapolis
Sep 27, 2010

I think that the true line on this follows directly along the bolt line. We were able to do the the route without breaking left into Blackout, and although you can traverse off the bolt line into larger holds, the direct line is hard, sustained knob climbing. Felt more mid-12, but I'm new to Tuolumne so perhaps I'm just weak. Fun line, although more interesting in its technical sequencing than much else.

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