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South Whizz Dome
Routes Sorted
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Blackout (direct start) T 
Body and Soul T 
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Shadow Warriors S 

Body and Soul 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b R

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b R [details]
FA: John Bachar
Page Views: 1,069
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Nov 16, 2009

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Body and Soul is characterized by an impressive knobby bulge above a smooth brown and white mottled wall. The route is a major achievement for it's era and even today. Done prior to and overshadowed by "Bachar-Yerian" and in the style of the day, B&S is another example of John's physical abilities and mindset.

The route has yet to be led ground up and in true redpoint style. Steve Schneider, according to John, made the second ascent after taking big falls onto the pro below the crux bulge and lowered off yo-yo style. It is unclear how many ascents should be documented. When attempted even with these tactics, the route is quite formidable and dangerous! It's just one of those climbs you get obsessed about and don't spend too much time messing around on.



Location 

Locate a shallow knobby flake below 2 old bolts. As you climb past the bolts, you gotta wonder why he didn't place them higher...Execute a devious and difficult 11+ sequence on slopey knobs and arrive at the diagonal crack. Unload some cams with long runners and try to relax...your body and your soul. The bulge itself is powerful and hard to decifer and once you commit...You're on! The fall is not that great but with the right belayer, you should avoid injury. Once above the bulge the lack of good pro and funky crystals will keep your attention! Set a funky belay because the route angles off quite a bit, or tackle the headwall direct.

Protection 

wired nuts, .5-3 inch cams and runners


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By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Oct 2, 2015

Alex,

I'm not sure what you mean by "the route has yet to be led ground up..." Do you mean onsight? I can't imagine Bachar not going ground up. There is a good supertopo thread about the route that indicates that Mike Lechlinski placed the double bolts and had a role in the FA as well. Regarding the rating, I wouldn't think there have been many ascents of this route, so not too much input on the grade. I take you've been on it. Is it really 12b knobs or more like Bachar's idea of 12b? Any additional insight would be appreciated, thanks.

-Jon