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YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Kevin Capps
Page Views: 100
Submitted By: half-pad-mini-jug on Mar 4, 2010

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Update: this has been redpointed as of January, 2014.

Start underneath the overlaps below the slab. The crux is getting between the 1st and 3rd bolt, I would recommend a stick-clip for the second bolt, don't wanna take that whipper onto the first. Finish straight up to the anchors below the roof.

Honestly, I have only tried the moves once, but they are reachy and desperate (not that fun). I may go back to try it eventually, but if you're over there and bored, give it a go!!!


It is the second bolt line from the right (see pic).


6 bolts, 2-bolt anchor w/rings.

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By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Jan 15, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I redpointed this route after cleaning the holds (still a bit dirty in spots) and figuring out the funky sequence/boulder problem. This is kind of a one move wonder, with a hard sequence in between the first and second bolt. After figuring out the powerful undercling-press-move, it didn't seem too bad, but it took me a little while to realize that was the way to do it. Since it's a boulder problem with a rope and super funky, I think a 5.12b rating is appropriate. Thanks for the route, Jason, it's fun to uncover old projects!
By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Jun 10, 2015

Kevin, you got a name for it?

By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Jun 10, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I like your name for it!

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