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Bob's Buttress Crack 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Don Doucette & Mike Dudley, Hazlett, 1960s, FFA Jim Dunn & Stewart Green, 1971
Page Views: 7,041
Submitted By: Darin Lang on Aug 27, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (87)
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BETA PHOTO: Anyone know what route I'm on here? I began think...

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  • Description 

    Hike north past New Era and around the corner. Bob's is the slightly overhanging finger to thin hands crack going straight up to a two-pin anchor with a mess of slings. Fun and sustained.


    Standard rack, making sure your "standard rack" includes some smaller cams, one pin. Nothing larger than a #2 Camalot/#3 Friend is needed. 2 bolt anchor with chains.

    Photos of Bob's Buttress Crack Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Fun crack!
    Fun crack!
    Rock Climbing Photo: First run on Bob's.
    First run on Bob's.
    Rock Climbing Photo: David works his way up Bob's Buttress Crack on lea...
    David works his way up Bob's Buttress Crack on lea...
    Rock Climbing Photo: David leads Bob's Buttress Crack.
    David leads Bob's Buttress Crack.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bob's Buttress Crack, Garden of the Gods, Spring 2...
    Bob's Buttress Crack, Garden of the Gods, Spring 2...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Low on the route.
    Low on the route.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Karen taking a lap on the super fun crack.
    Karen taking a lap on the super fun crack.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Dan at the alcove and anchors for Bob's Buttress C...
    Dan at the alcove and anchors for Bob's Buttress C...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bob's Buttress Crack follows the crack up to the a...
    BETA PHOTO: Bob's Buttress Crack follows the crack up to the a...

    Comments on Bob's Buttress Crack Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 16, 2016
    By Anonymous Coward
    Oct 26, 2001

    The slings are gone, and even though this is a short route, this is a Garden classic. The crux is a slight overhang about half way up that requires a big step or some fancy stemming. The hand and finger jams are soid all the way up along with plenty of places to place gear which makes this a fun route for people learning gear placements.
    By Shane Zentner
    From: Colorado
    Dec 31, 2001

    I placed several #1 Camalots and a #2 Camalot about two years ago on this climb. This route supposedly goes all the way to the top of the rock.
    By Sean O'Dell
    May 30, 2002

    It appears that the slings at the top have been replaced with chains. Whoever did that - thanks :)
    By Chris R
    Sep 5, 2003

    Watch out for bats in the crack about 1/2 way up. Jam with care!
    By Sirius
    From: Oakland, CA
    Nov 17, 2003

    I would add one piece of big protection to your rack, as there is a solid placement for a #4 Camalot toward the top of the climb, a few feet below the only fixed pin on the route. The crux move over the bulge isn't so bad - I tried jamming it, found I wasn't strong enough and made it by with a lieback. There are a couple of finger locks outside of the crack itself that offer decent resting spots.

    I'd have to disagree that this is a good first trad lead. A little too sustained, I think. Cowboy Boot Crack or even New Era's first pitch might be a friendlier first run at placing gear, I'd say.
    By Kris Carter
    Apr 1, 2004
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Sustained would be a very accurate route description - this made it seem harder in my mind. Not for the new trad leader - I ended up making it some kind of weenie aid climb after running out of strength. Also managed to give my #6 fat cam a good lead fall - my first woo hoo! This climb furthers my opinion that I am a wuss. Just the same worth doing if you are ok with trad & have the stamina - I'll be back eventually to do it the right way.
    By Larry Shaw
    May 30, 2004
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    This thing sucks up pro..easy climbing on the bottom to an weird bulge with good jams to an easier top. Would be a good lead for a solid .8 trad leader.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jul 4, 2004

    Great climb, but I'm glad others felt it was sustained! A few years ago when I climbed 3 days a week, this route was no problem. Now after a 3 year hiatus from climbing, I struggled for the majority of the climb. My recommendation is not to waste energy over protecting. 4 pieces of GOOD protection plus the pin will suffice, and you'll have plenty of energy. My mistake was making 10 crappy placements because I never had the strength to get a GOOD piece of pro in the rock and I wasted a lot of stamina.
    By Jeremy Hakes
    From: Golden, Colorado
    Jun 7, 2008
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

    No slings on the wall. Sustained!
    By Rich F.
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    May 10, 2009
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Excellent route on solid rock. Well-protected crack with BD Camalots in the #0.75 to #1 range. I also used a #2. Fell on lead near the top (thanks for the catch, Dan!). The moves were at about the 5.8 level, but it seemed quite sustained to me. I took too long on lead sinking in protection and my arms were worn out by the time I reached the top -- though it's only about a 60 ft pitch. Fun route, though!
    By Daniel Battin
    From: Green Mtn. Falls, CO
    Aug 5, 2009

    Hadn't climbed this thing in about five years until today. Just plain fun 5.8!
    By cliff powers
    Feb 4, 2010

    I got to climb this with the (Great) Jimmy Dunn, I dislocated my shoulder, tore my rotator cuff. Then went on to suffer the New Era right after. I must say I was stupid, and don't try this at home, but GREAT route and I couldn't quit, esp. climbing with one of the best. I'm recovering nicely from my second surgery now, so all is good and I want this route again some day....
    By Logan Berndt
    From: Colorado Springs
    Mar 14, 2012
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

    Short and pumpy!! Great trad lead and a definite Garden classic!
    By Jordan Hirro
    From: Colorado Springs/Carbondale
    Oct 15, 2012

    Very fun climb! Small-medium cams. 0.5-2 range. Definitely a Garden favorite!
    By Megan Poling
    Aug 16, 2016

    So much bird shit. The smell was overwhelming at times. Watch out for the swallows that dart out as you continue up. Fun route if wasn't covered in bird shit.

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