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Bowling to Biscuits T 
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Peanuts To Serve You T 
Purple Kool-Aid T 
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Velvet Pedestal, The T 
You can cool Jack Robinson T 

Bobcat Cringe 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Terry Lien
Page Views: 2,387
Submitted By: Eric Hirst on Nov 21, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Route follows the horizon line of the wall to clim...

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The beautiful, steep, curving thin crack R of Peanuts to Serve You. Start as for Peanuts, then cut R on easy ground (5.9) to reach a 2 bolt belay. Climb the crack, passing 2 bolts and 1 fixed pin to reach chains.

Includes thin laybacking, pocket pulling, tip-jamming, and knob climbing.

Caveat: I haven't climbed it yet. But I did take a picture today!


Same as Peanuts: It's above the L side of Private Idaho.


Lots of thin-finger sized gear, at least 4 quickdraws, plus a few hand-sized cams for the approach pitch.

Before the first bolt, it is nice to have a 1/2" stopper to place in the ramp crack ("Jack Robinson"), and just after the first bolt, you can put a hand-sized (red camalot) cam into the only hand pod. There is one more pod, this one thin hands, but then it is all thin - use the smallest TCUs and include several 000 cams.

Photos of Bobcat Cringe Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun!
Rock Climbing Photo: The Bobcat Cringe follows the upper curving thin c...
BETA PHOTO: The Bobcat Cringe follows the upper curving thin c...
Rock Climbing Photo: 2nd pitch of Bobcat, from base. Savor them chicken...
BETA PHOTO: 2nd pitch of Bobcat, from base. Savor them chicken...
Rock Climbing Photo: Feeling the fangs on the Cringe
Feeling the fangs on the Cringe

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 12, 2017
By Drewsky
Jan 13, 2012

Can be climbed in one pitch from the ground if the rope is pulled through once the two bolt anchor is reached. In the picture shown, the climb is actually the upper crack that is seen only as a margin between light and dark rock. Gear should emphasize finger size cams but include up to a gold C4. Doubles or triples are useful in the small to medium range. There are a couple of bolts on the climb as well. This has to be one of the best cracks around these parts, continuously overhung and splitter as can be.
By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Jul 25, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

The crack starts in space and ends in space, and curves like a snake in between. As the rock is dark above, white below, the resulting pattern is a little like the yin-yang symbol.

You can just reach into the bottom of the crack from the neighboring route, and when it ends, you have a few face moves to a ledge. Some have called it the best thin finger crack in WA.

In difficulty, it makes "I am in top a shader" (the stellar 11c finger crack just below on Private Idaho) seem like a 5.8 hand crack. Expect a fight for every jam.
By Drewsky
Sep 22, 2013

But that's ignoring the face section on 'Shader', the crux of which likewise makes any single move on Bobcat seem like 5.8!
By Jens Holsten
Oct 4, 2014

Phenomenal route!!
By blakeherrington
Jul 16, 2015

This could easily be the best finger crack in Washington.
By Stamati
From: Bellingham, WA
Jun 29, 2016

Could this be the route's namesake?
By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Jun 29, 2016
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Stamati -

Bingo on the namesake.
From: Seattle, WA
Jul 22, 2016

Has the crack below and to the left of Bobcat Cringe been climbed? As of this spring, it looked pretty clean, and there was a new looking bolt somewhere up top between Peanuts and Bobcat. Looks thin and hard.
By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Jul 22, 2016
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b


That crack is 'You can cool Jack Robinson'. It hasn't been led, just TRed. Derek posted some pics on the main Lookout Point page.

There is another route that merges with it in which you go up either Purple Kool Aid or Peanuts, then do a 5.10 face move over to Jack R- (at the bolt), and continue up. At least with the direct start into Kool Aid, it is called 'This is Index, Not LA', and is probably 11b. The direct start bolt hasn't been put in yet.
By derekpearson Pearson
Jul 22, 2016

JCM < Yeah its been climbed. Michal Rynkiewicz talked to about getting all the moves now he just needs to go for the send , its difficult to place pro and its very thin. Its a great climb though. I cleaned this route and placed the bolts in 2012. I think its harder then Bobcat Cringe. Jon and I had a name for this but we never sent it so whoever sends gets to name it , it will be a very impressive send.

When one climbs in from Solitude its a little easier. The name of this way is called "This is Index not LA". The first crux at the first bolt is boulder problem my guess is V3. The finish is pretty awesome. I did all the moves on this with Tom and Sunshine and one other friend I forget his name. Tom didn't try it though so I didn't get a good insight as to the rating. For example Sunny climbed Bobcat without any problem and then the steep corner on TIINLA has a big reach move and that gave her a challenge. I'm guessing 12 b/c for TIINLA. When I return I will be going for the send as soon as this is dry in spring 2017.
By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Jul 22, 2016
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

TIINLA: Oh man, I thought 11b, and Derek is saying 12b/c. The move up high that is hard might not require a long reach, just flexible hips -- I recall throwing my foot way left.

Derek, you cleaned "Jack R", so you get to name it. The cleaners name things at Index, don't they?

I recall TRing it with you and Jonathan, taking many falls on a really hot day, but getting all the moves. Seemed much harder than the Cringe.
By derekpearson Pearson
Jul 22, 2016

Jon, thats right you did get all the moves on "Jackie R" Lets go for the send when I get back. Fa was you. Actually that's right Jon the cleaners/senders do name the projects/routes. Lets talk about the name though ;) lol . Just joking. I want to try this when I return. I hope it will be a dry early season.
By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Jul 23, 2016
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

So, Derek, that would be early spring 2017 (or winter 2016-2017)?

I'm keen on it. Hopefully, my knee will be up for the moves.
By derekpearson Pearson
Jul 24, 2016

Jon, yeah I will be back by Christmas hopefully. Its possible I return in January. I will be very motivated when I return.
By Jon Todorovich
Apr 18, 2017
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Gear beta because the description makes it seem like you need more gear than you actually do.
2 bolt anchor start. blue dmm offset nut (tons of different gear would go here as well). Bolt. 1st hand-pod is gold camalot (not red as listed in description), 2nd hand pod is red camlot, blue mastercam, pin, blue mastercam, 2 purple mastercams in a row, bolt, top-out.
On an onsight go you'll probably want a few more pieces plus a set of nuts for some flexibility. but unless you're aiding, you shouldn't need any 00 and certainly no 000 pieces.
The crack above the 2 bolt anchor seems to seep pretty often. It makes the intro boulder problem more difficult, but isn't a deal breaker.
Incredibly splitter and steeper than it looks! The knobs aren't as restful as you hope they're going to be - climb fast!
By Steven Strong
Jun 12, 2017

FFA = Terry Lien and he earned it!

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