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A really fun mixed route on the King formation. Start in corner with bolt, plug a few pieces, and move right to left-facing corner. Jam (!) through the crux on good gear and pull out roof via satisfying laybacks. Some face climbing past 2 bolts puts you at the anchor.
On the King, 2 routes left of Fool's Gambit. Starts in a right-facing corner.
A few bolts, and a set of stoppers and doubles of cams from fingers to #2 BD and a single #3 BD will get you up with gear to spare.
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 18, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Single rack of metolious small purple to large blue plus rack of nuts and several long draws did me right. The rock is questionable in places - I broke a foothold on the short traverse to the crack, so nuts may be particularly good on this one. At the roof I could reach up and place a little purple metolious and then run it to the bolt. Easier climbing but you would not want to blow the clip. Really fun moves!