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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Eric Barrett, Bob Ordner and Rusty Baille 2009.
Page Views: 856
Submitted By: Chris Doll on Jul 12, 2013  with updates from Nick Sweeney

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Bob on lead above chimney, belaying me on first pi...


This route can probably be done in one pitch, but there would be a lot of rope drag.

First Pitch: Starts off with low grade slap climbing then gradually gets steeper at the crux before turning left and heading towards the chains.

Second Pitch: Climb up the 3 bolt chimney while trying to avoid getting stuck in it. The chains are at the top of the chimney, or you can scramble up a bit further to another set of chains that can be rapeled off.


The obvious large chimney that runs up the southwest corner of the Big Rock


5 bolts on the bottom section with rapel rings and an anchor station. 3 bolts in the chimney with your choice of chains on the chimney section.

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By applewood
From: Tonasket, WA
Jul 23, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

My daughter and I did this route as one long pitch last weekend (maybe 160'). I skipped a few bolts and used longer slings on a couple to reduce rope drag, but it was fun with no real drag. We continued to the top with a 2nd long pitch (5.1 and maybe 180') which was the most fun. It needed a couple of cams as well as the lone bolt I found, and the long runouts and wind gave it an alpine feel. I think the main route would benefit from some rebolting to straighten the line some and eliminate unnecessary placements, as the chimney is well worth doing.
By Nick Sweeney
From: Spokane, WA
May 3, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This chimney is an exciting lead for the grade, and is recommended for the Big Rock enthusiast. I've never done the first pitch, but you can link the South Face routes to the anchor below the chimney (I love "Around the Horn" as a first pitch). One you top out from the chimney, head right around the bulge for some 4th class to the summit or head left to a bolt protecting a single 5.7 move before rolling 4th class to the summit.

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