REI Community
Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anchovy Caper, The S 
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 
Arugula, Arugula S 
Barbershop Duet T 
Big Easy, The S 
Boats from Cuba T 
Bonnie and Clyde S 
Bourbon Street S 
Brendan's Bitches T 
Cereal Killer S 
Climb and Punishment S 
Cloud Atlas S 
Clusterphobia S 
Far From Feral S 
Fish Corner  S 
Flying Squirrel S 
Green Mile S 
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 
Juicy Fingers T 
Maltese Falcon, The S 
Maria's Variation T 
Men In White Suits S 
Mentally Disturbed S 
Mesresha S 
Metamorphosis S 
Mitosis S 
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) S 
Rainbow S 
Scene of the Crime S 
Sesame Street S 
Slack T 
Slick T 
Toxic Gumbo S 
White Buttress, The T 

Boats from Cuba 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Chris Hassig 1980
Page Views: 807
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 8, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Like a little piece of Cannon stuck to Rumney.
Unfortunately the Cannon style trad climbing is over quickly but at least it leads back to classic Rumney schist.

Typically listed an "R" rated climb but since the route finishes the same way as Millennium Falcon the scary climbing is now all bolted. I skipped the bolts and thought that in that style it deserved the "R".

Start on the ledge atop the first pitch of The Big Easy 5.7. Climb up a crack from the big pine tree on the right side of the ledge. Move up and right careful not to dislodge any loose blocks. Mantel on to the smooth slab of Millennium Falcon 5.10c. From here you can clip Millennium's bolts to the anchor. lower down to the Millennium ledge and have your partner follow and clean.

Location 

From the right side of the Big Easy ledge to the anchors of Millennium Falcon.

Protection 

Regular rack.


Comments on Boats from Cuba Add Comment
Show which comments
By S. Neoh
May 8, 2013

In its current form, is there a move where you have three or four points of contact on a BIG detached block? This climb was scary before MF was cleaned and bolted.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 9, 2013

all the loose stuff didnt seem that epic... i was pounding on everything to make sure it was solid and felt secure enough... some TV sized blocks were loose but wouldn't come down without some work...
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Nov 9, 2015

Overall it is really safe and not too bad to protect, I was glad to clip the bolts on millennium though.
By Jay Morse
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
May 14, 2017

This is a fun little pitch that I suggest doing fully on gear until you meet up with Millenium Falcon, and only on a day where you can be sure there won't be someone on Millenium Falcon when you get over there. You will be SOL if there is.

With the addition of more routes above the Big Easy ledge last Fall, this route has in effect become almost fully bolted, and you really only need one #1 or #2 cam to keep it G rated. Bring lots of alpine draws.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About