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Boat Trouble T 

Boat Trouble 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Charles Westin and Eliot Ku 7/18/2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 238
Submitted By: Charles Westin on Oct 20, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Topo

Description 

Pitch 1: Look for a right facing dihedral with a hand crack, which leads to a short roof 40' 5.7

The first pitch leads to a large ledge.

Pitch 2: Climb the large right facing dihedral with a blocky start until the crack thins to tips. Place a 0.2 x4 and pull around the arete (crux) 5.10, but well protected. Continue up the left side of the arete with worrying pro. Finally, trend left on a slabby face (20' runout to the top) 5.8R.

Descent: Webbing and quicklink around a tree climbers right of the top to descend. Doubles to the bottom or make two raps.

Location 

Hike south along the west bank of Rockcastle, from the confluence of Turkey creek and the Rockcastle, for about 1/3 of a mile. Keep an eye out for a large slabby boulder river left. At this point you should see a wash heading up hill to the west, follow this to the base of the wall. There is a 40' wall which leads to a large ledge with another 100' of wall above the ledge. The climb can be found roughly left of center of the ledge. See topo in pictures.

Protection 

0.2 x4 to #2 c4. doubles of 0.3 to .75. Single set of nuts.


Photos of Boat Trouble Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The top 1/4 of the route as seen from the Rockcast...
BETA PHOTO: The top 1/4 of the route as seen from the Rockcast...

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