REI Community
C. Middle and West Walls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back on Track T 
Belay Brothers Bounce Back, The T 
Blunt Arete to Exit T,TR 
Buffalo Soldier S 
Lyin' Like a Lion (in Zion) S 
Offwidth Corner T,TR 
Old Pirates S 
Please Pick Up Your Trash T 
Small Axe S 
Three Little Birds S 

Blunt Arete to Exit 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 2 pitches, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Mike Endicott, LP
Page Views: 197
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jul 25, 2015

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Mike uses his Gunks background to calmly move upwa...

Description 

This was used as a means to get above the precarious flake on Offwidth Corner to see if it could be trundled. As a route, it has a bit of challenge to protecting it, an interesting move stepping up over a minor bulge (5.7 R), and an intimidating exit traverse on P2.

P1. Start in the alcove near the start of Small Axe. Place a green Alien in a crack to the left, slab upwards, get either a combo of iffy 0.1 and 0.2 Camalots or another iffy green Alien. You can move rightward to bigger holds or highstep over a tiny overlap (5.7 R). Move upwards on the blunt arete onto easier terrain and belay ~35' up above Offwidth Corner, 5.7 R.

P2. To exit, we moved up, traversed a boulder, gained a corner, then traversed rightward towards the anchors of Small Axe. Note, this may feel challenging for shorter climbers. A creative wire and downward blue Alien protects your second. Move downward a bit to the anchor for Small Axe, 5.9 PG-13.

Location 

This starts on the blunt arete just to the left of Small Axe and right of The Belay Brothers Bounce Back.

Protection 

P1 used a green Alien, #0.1 & #0.2 Camalots or another green Alien, #0.75, #1 Camalots. Anchors were a threaded sling and two wires.

P2 used #0.1 & #0.2 Camalots, #0.5 Camalot, wire, another cam, nut, blue Alien, and 24" slings.


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