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Blues for Mowgli 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Keith Becconsall 05/01
Page Views: 200
Submitted By: lee hansche on Dec 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

This line is more fun than it looks and packs quite a punch. It feels like its on the hard side of the grade so show up ready to crank. Steep climbing up the imposing arete requires core tension, a precise sequence and a dash of raw power. Though the crux section is only about 15 feet long it feels like twice that.

Start at the base of a slab with 2 bolts on it. Climb the moderate slab to a roomy ledge where you will be able to clip 2 or 3 bolts before you really have to commit. This is where the fun begins. Make your way left under the roof toward the arete feature, the holds are a bit awkward and indistinct. Reach left to a good shallow slot in a steep face and make a hard move to a pretty good crimp above with your right. Gain a couple of goodish holds up and left then power up and toss to a crack and then a jug before making more moderate moves to mantel the lip using nice finger locks. Up the short slab to the anchors.

There is a contrived right hand finish which is harder and a bit silly in my opinion.

Location 

Climbs the slab and the super steep arete on the far left buttress of Triple Corners.

Protection 

8 bolts to fixed lower off biners. The 6th bolt is a little hard to clip.


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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 15, 2009

I one hung this route today... the crux is definitely clipping the 6th bolt... but the moves are so cool and fun...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 25, 2009

i finally sent this today! the crux sequence is one of my favorite hard sequences ive climbed...

oh and clip the 6th bolt when its at your waist once you are ready to send...
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Aug 25, 2009

nice dude! sick send! and i like how you go sharma style and just skip the bolt haha :)
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 25, 2009

thanks! the crux for me is about 8 moves long and that bolt is right in the middle so clipping it was a really big factor for me...
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 14, 2009
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Keith Becconsall did the FA. I think this is one of his best routes and it is fiendishly hard to me. Definitely a sandbag at 12c in the old book
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 15, 2009

i gave keith credit, thanks mark... and yeah, REALLY FUN!!! and hard for 5.12c i would like more folks to climb it and chime in on the grade but no one knows there is a gem waiting out there...
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Apr 23, 2016

A climber who shall remain nameless broke a crucial (for me) hold off this route. The nice gaston by the fourth bolt is now no more. I'm sure the route still goes, but not at its current grade. Things fall apart, I guess.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 23, 2016

BUMMER! I really enjoyed this one.
damn you Nameless Climber! haha
now I'm curious to see what is missing.
By Will McFarland
From: Lebanon, NH
Oct 9, 2016
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

I sent this today and saw where the old hold broke. I found a really fun V6 sequence that requires a right kneepad. The beta involves mostly staying right of the 4th bolt. Feels like solid 12d to me.

Beta: From the ledge, go to a high crimp with your left hand and get an obvious kneebar out right under a roof. Match and switch hands on the good crimp, left hand to undercling. Take knee bar out and grab a non-hold with your left hand over the roof to set up for a big throw left hand to a campus rung crimp rail (about 2 feet right of the good arete crimp). Once on the crimp rail, get another shallow kneebar/scum in the undercling overlap with a bad foot and bump your left hand over, then match the good crimp rail, continue to top as normal. This beta avoids the arete entirely until established on the good crimp.