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Blue's Buttress T 

Blue's Buttress 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 800', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Larry Goldie, Blue Bradley
Season: Summer, early Fall
Page Views: 852
Submitted By: Mike A. Lewis on Sep 28, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: The entire ridge as see from the East.

Description 

Good, fun, easy alpine route. Ian's guidebook gives great information for this route, so I won't belabor the point. I will say that once you are on route, stop looking at the guidebook or topo. Just stay on the ridge following the line of least resistance. Experienced alpinists will enjoy this route as a solo. This route has a lot of loose rocks on it. Be careful climbing under other parties. A planned trundle-party where no one is underneath the route would make this route a lot better. The rock quality is okay, never really more than that.

Location 

See the Poster Peak page and Ian's guidebook for approach details. Once up under Poster Peak at treeline, look for the buttress with the large obvious roof. Traverse around the left (SE) side of the buttress and look for the easy ledges that give access to the ridge.

Descent: Walk SE off the summit to the col along the SE ridge at 7130'. Hike down the loose gully back to the base of the buttresses. Catch the cairns back to the Haripin.

Protection 

Experienced alpinists will get by with a single rack, a few runners. For those more new to the game and if you'd like to have more options when you run out of rope and are on a ledge with only one crack to work with, you may want a double rack up to #3, 6-7 runners. A double-length runner or two comes in handy when trying to reduce rope-drag on long leads through all the various ledges.


Photos of Blue's Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Just before the Notch.
BETA PHOTO: Just before the Notch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick Direen somewhere in scramble-land.
Nick Direen somewhere in scramble-land.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick Direen on the summit of Poster Peak.
Nick Direen on the summit of Poster Peak.
Rock Climbing Photo: 1st steep pitch after the notch. Short, some loose...
BETA PHOTO: 1st steep pitch after the notch. Short, some loose...
Rock Climbing Photo: Angela Hawse belaying Erica Engle up the 2nd pitch...
BETA PHOTO: Angela Hawse belaying Erica Engle up the 2nd pitch...

Comments on Blue's Buttress Add Comment
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By Rafe
Oct 16, 2015
rating: Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c

There is about 15 feet of decent climbing on this route.

Imagine almost any alpine rock climb in the cascades that has one or some of those 4th/low 5th class, kind of chossy, totally unmemorable pitches... That's pretty much what the entire route is like.

There is some sketchy loose rock on one of the higher pitches too.
By Nick Sweeney
From: Spokane, WA
Aug 8, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

We used a 70m rope for this route and stretched the whole thing out multiple times. 9 pitches total - the majority of this route is 3rd and 4th class with only occasional fifth class. Good for new trad climbers looking to climb a long, very easy, and somewhat aesthetic route. Seasoned climbers will be left wanting.
By Aawait
Sep 11, 2016
rating: Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c

An interesting scramble. Very similar to the South Arete on SEWS. With the correct expectation I believe this is a fun short day out.
By Kyle Elliott
From: Everett, WA
Jun 26, 2017

Simul climbed in a little over 2 hours. used a 30m rope and a double rack from .5-2. the approach took about 2 hours because we mess around a lot. there's still snow on almost the entire approach (as of 6/24), but it's well consolidated. We made the trek around noon and the lower boulder fields were pretty heinous for postholing, as you'd expect in the heat. make the trip in the am.

There's a few options on some of the pitches, and you can bump the grade to around 5.6/5.7 here and there without it feeling too contrived.
The technical crux is super easy, and very solid. The section after the notch is awful, and it seems everyone cuts right into the sandy gully. go straight up the corner instead and end up on a rad ledge, complete with teetering boulders.

The decent is pretty straightforward. watch the cornices on the ridge down to the bowl. It was a little tricky getting into the bowl with no ice axes, you can rap off a tree, or hike down the bowl skier's left, where the snow field is less vertical. Then you can glissade and plunge step easily back down into the drainage.

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