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Blueberry Train Wreck 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jamie Coin
Season: All. am sun. pm shade. Great route for shade earlier in the day.
Page Views: 137
Submitted By: BBQ on May 1, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Get off your tracks and get on it!

Check yo self before ya wreck yo self on this runaway train! 

A super fun route that shares the same start as Mary Jane and gets you super pumped on big slopey pockets that can get greasy if not navigated correctly. Enjoy the steep forearm wrecking fun and traverse left at the fifth bolt. Get yourself good and stemmed in an engaging open book dihedral and pull some pockets and crimps.

PREPARE FOR SMALL POSITIVE HOLDS ON SICK OVERHUNG STONE!

Gain altitude on an arete located on a big black shaft with an impressive circumference. Grunt and groan your way up some hard ass holds and prepare for a red point crux with sick layback moves on finger killing holds! Just when you think your screaming digits are going to get ripped from your smoking palms, huck for the gigantic bomber-ass dragon nostril pocket. Careful! This thing is slopey and you need to match a foot inside it just right to gain the petina jugs while enduring an ordeal of axe blade gastone flakes. Reach for the right hold in the black rock above and enjoy ten feet of five ten to the anchors.

Fun! Fun! Fun! Great movement on mostly sick holds! This route is a bit easier than Blue Sky Blonde but brings Mary Jane's ass kicking pump factor up a notch or two. Get on it and enjoy a few sessions of getting shut down before getting a righteous send.

Location 

2nd bolt line from the left on the Upper Danks Wall where Mary Jane is located.

Protection 

Take 10 quickdraws.


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