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(9) Toothpick Wall
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Blueberry Jam  T 
Power Surge TR 
Vertical Therapy T,TR 

Blueberry Jam  

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 1977 Robery McGown & Mike Smelsar
Page Views: 569
Submitted By: another Chad on Feb 15, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: route follows crack. very fun climb

Description 

Blueberry Jam is a steep, clean crack on the left side of the Toothpick Wall. The traditional start begins to the right of the crack on easy terrain and traverses left on good edges. Small cams or RP's protect the traverse reasonably well. An alternate direct-start is bouldery and fun though much more challenging than anything else on the route (bumps the grade up to 5.10a). Once into the crack the climbing gets really fun. Relatively steep climbing with great jamming and frequent face holds. Near the top of Blueberry Jam the crack gets wider but also less steep. Most will run this section out though a C4 #6 can be used.

Protection 

Micro-cams or RP's for the traditional start. Gear to 3" for the rest of the climb. Optional 6" cam for the top.


Photos of Blueberry Jam Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: opening move of Blueberry. right side crack with p...
BETA PHOTO: opening move of Blueberry. right side crack with p...
Rock Climbing Photo: view from top. use trees behind as anchor points. ...
BETA PHOTO: view from top. use trees behind as anchor points. ...

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