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Sugarloaf, East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beast of Burden S 
Bird Man S 
Blue Velvet T,S 
Captain Fingers T 
Crushed Velvet T 
Dominion T 
East Chimney T 
East Face, The T 
Falcon, The S 
Fang-Left Side, The T 
Farley T 
Fracture, The T 
Gallows Pole (direct) T,S 
Grand Illusion T 
Harding's Chimney T 
Lady Luck T 
Lurch T 
Mini Illusion, The S 
Monkey Flower T,S 
Morticia T 
Opus 7 S 
Over the Edge T 
Pinch a Loaf S 
Scheister T 
South Summit Bolt Ladder S 
Stone T 
Swallowtail T 
Talking Heads T 
Tapestry T 
Taurus T 
Telesis S 

Blue Velvet 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Will Cottrell
Page Views: 2,802
Submitted By: caughtinside on Jan 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Mike Arechiga on, Blue Velvet. 5.10c.


This is the bolted face between Schiester and Farley. Start off the ramp leading to scheister, you can clip the first bolt before committing to the tricky opening move.

Reachy clip for 2nd bolt, then trend right and back left to keep the grade sub 11. Crux is a smear up high.

Stellar route, sustained balancy movement between knobs and edges. Not a power route at all, all balance, finesse and footwork.

The route takes 2 more pitches and tops out, but the final pitch is R. Last two pitches are seldom done.


bolted face between scheister and Farley.



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By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Apr 1, 2009

Opening moves are definitely the crux. I'm tall, so I started out high left and worked my way over to the right.

One other easier crux up higher when transitioning from the right to the left.
By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 7, 2010

Multiple cruxes and very sustained.
By 213blc
Jan 29, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Beautiful route, sustained the whole way. Found moves above 1st bolt most exciting until 2nd clip was made. Stellar knob climbing!
By Josh Cameron
From: California in my Mind
Jan 3, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The first pitch is what this climb is known for but there is an awesomely exposed 3rd pitch that leads to the tunnel through om Harding's Chimney. Climb all of Blue Velvet to get there or to bypass the freaking scary 2nd pitch climb Harding's or Scheister.

On the 3rd pitch of those easier routes, after the slab but before the 5.5 gully, look up the improbable looking face and you'll see several bolts heading up the face above you. Well protected at the cruxes but I wouldn't want to fall before the first bolt (insecure and balancy) or after it traverses around the arete near the top (5.9/10aish with pendulum potential). An awesome 3 pitch climb or a proud finish to Harding's or Scheister.
By Keith Bouma-Gregson
Apr 30, 2017
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Climbed this yesterday, 29-Apr-2017, the 2nd and 3rd pitches are awesome! If you can climb the first pitch the 5.8 runout on pitch 2 will be no problem for you. The moves on pitch 3 are very memorable. The climbing is more sustained and interesting than Boulee Gold. More traffic on the upper pitches would clean off some lichen and make the pitches even better. You can rappel the route with 2 ropes, or finish on the tunnel-through of Harding's Chimney and then walk off.

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