REI Community
Ross Peak
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blue Phoenix S 
Fellowship Direct (aka The Mothership), The T,S 
Fellowship, The T,S 
Trial By Fire S 

Blue Phoenix 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Evan Mathews, Matthew Abbott, Tony Chang (July 2017)
New Route: Yes
Season: Late June Through Early October (depending on snowfall)
Page Views: 510
Submitted By: A. Ginger on Jul 14, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Blue Phoenix followes the blue line. Red X's show ...

Description 

The direct variation of Trial By Fire, Blue Phoenix takes the center line up the north east face of Ross Peak. This line has three distinct crux pitches with very fun climbing leading up to and in between cruxes. Each crux pitch is on excellent stone and vary in style that will test your knowledge of the Bozeman area limestone climbing. Access this route by climbing the first three pitches of Trial By Fire.

Pitch 4, 5.9+
Step right form the anchor of pitch three of Trial By Fire to a bolt and climb the excellent slab to a three bolt and chain hanging belay below the first crux pitch, The Wave.

Pitch 5, The Wave, 5.12-
Follow a flowing but wandering line of awesome pockets and edges up the steep blue streaked headwall to a pumpy crux between bolts 4 and 5. After pulling onto a small ledge the difficulty eases but the climbing becomes a bit devious. After the tricky bit follow a feature right to a bolt belay to the left of a small tree. Bring an alpine draw for bolt 6.

Either walk or make a short rap down and to the right to the large comfy ledge to an un-anchored belay below the gray slab.

Pitch 6, The Ice Cream Parlor, 5.12
The hardest of the crux pitches. Named for the sherbert-esque colors seemingly melting down the walls of the alcove. Follow a line of bolts up the easy slab just to the right of a shallow dihedral to a short but steep section of wall with great rock. Take a breath at the no-hands rest before embarking up the steep face using awesome but hard to see and sequence holds to a powerful and bouldery lip encounter pulling into the cleft before the upper slab. Climb up the fun and easy slab leading to a bolt anchor to the left of the large group of trees that live on the ledge above. Runner things well.

From the belay move right and up the small gully leading towards the obvious giant ledge. Walk up and belay un-anchored to the right of a large tree directly at the base of the next wall. As a note, if needed the last two pitches can be skipped by making your way right off the ledge to link up with a 4th class gully and ledge system that heads up and left across the wall towards the summit and descent.

Pitch 7, 5.10
Follow bolts up and left following a seam feature to fun chert adventure climbing staying left of a small tree 3/4 of the way up the face. The pitch ends at an obvious large tree belay at the top of the face.

From the tree belay walk up and left to an obvious un-anchored belay area in a small alcove below the right side of the final headwall. The first bolt of the last pitch is just to the left of a short and small left facing dihedral and is about 10ft off the ground.

Pitch 8, The Headwall, 5.12-
Climb up easy ground to a small ledge with lots of orange lichen below the steep section of the headwall. Off the ledge, move right and follow a series of underclings to a delicate traverse left to a good rest. After resting, move back up and right and fire a final crux lip encounter on amazing pockets, crimps, and chert features to the last long stretch of easy glory climbing to a bolted anchor on the right side of the ledge at the top of the headwall. Runner things well, a long pitch!

To summit, walk to the top of the headwall feature and follow a thin ridge that curves south east for about 80 feet or so that eventually deposits you at the top of the fourth class escape gully. To summit Ross Peak follow the trail that leads right around the backside of the headwall, to descend follow the trail left down the east ridge of Ross.

Protection 

Bolts. Bring 10 quickdraws, 8 alpine draws, a minimum of 8 feet of webbing for the tree belay at the top of pitch 7, and a 70m rope. Wear a helmet, there are usually mountain goats around that can cause rockfall.

Location 

Accessed by climbing the first three pitches of Trial By Fire.


Comments on Blue Phoenix Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Jul 17, 2017

Nice work Evan, this looks awesome.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About