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Blue Moon 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 600'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Bob Branscomb, Ed DeLong 2006
Page Views: 1,756
Submitted By: bob branscomb on Mar 18, 2009

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Patty leads the first pitch of Blue Moon.

Sticky situation MORE INFO >>>


This is a more led out affair than a lot of the routes here. The first pirch only has three or four bolts for 60m, but the pitches are only 5.5-5.6. This route goes straight up the shallow water trough until directly under the large roof at the top of the wall. First and second pitches are about equal difficulty.


Drive into Moonstone and park at the cabin. Above the cabin is a wide slab with a long roof system capping the top. Blue Moon follows the shallow water trough in a plumb line slightly left of the right end of this roof system.


Bolts, 3/8" Fixx. Fixx rappel rings at each belay. Rappel the route. 60m rope required. Two 60m ropes required to rappel the route.

Photos of Blue Moon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Blue Moon on Moonstone.
BETA PHOTO: Blue Moon on Moonstone.

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By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
Sep 4, 2009
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Can also top out by climbing up and to the right of the edge of the roofy area above the last belay station. Then walk back around to the left (above the roof) and follow low angle slab back to the base.

I have in my notes that the third pitch is 35 meters, and the first and second pitches are 30+ meters. Makes for at most a 400 foot route rather than 3 pitches and 600 feet.

P1: 3 bolts. P2 4 bolts. P3 3 bolts. At least that's what my notes say (!).

Fun route!
By bob branscomb
From: Lander, WY
Sep 17, 2009

With all due respect, I think you may have mis-measured the pitch lengths.
By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
Sep 17, 2009
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Could be, Bob. We did all three pitches in around an hour and since we're slow... Seemed like the Flake Route was more of a rope stretcher and went up a bunch higher on the Dome (but still not full rope lengths).

On the list for a repeat, though, and I'll mind the rope length a bit more closely. Cheers!

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