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Blue Hair Headache S 
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Blue Hair Headache 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Mike Cronin
Season: Spring, summer and fall...gets shade much sooner than Kill Phil or Internat
Page Views: 27
Submitted By: BBQ on Jul 14, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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She is better Blue Iris RIP!

Description 

Oh yeah! This route is SWEET! Starts on slopy pockets which lead to sloper ledges which lead to better pockets and edges which leads to a funky, yet totally wild crux that involves a sidepull that needs to be turned into an undercling which at that point requires you to get into a twisting, spread eagle sort of stance which caused me to fart and laugh myself off the route.

Hang #1 - Get resituated, rid yourself of excess gas and get ready to send.

Attempt #2 - Get the undercling stance thing and launch for a jug of a ledge which was not visible during attempt #1. But when you stick it this jug is SWEET!

The rest of the climb is a bit of a nail bitter but much more doable than Kill Phil or International Distress. Not to bag on those climbs, cause they are SWEET, but this climb might be a better one to start on since it get shade earlier and is a bit less strenuous.

This is an awesome climb which might be a totally doable 5.11 for some and a total headache for others. This route is good fun and if the next guidebook author does not give it at least three stars I am going to send Orca the killer whale to take a dump on their lawn.

I loves this climb and I suggest you do it! In fact, do it all day long and then get on Kill Phil and International Distress when the shade finally comes.

Location 

One route to the immediate right of Dead Residents, or the fifth climb if you are counting from left to right.

Protection 

10 bolts. Open shut anchors. Your belayer's butt will appreciate the finally crafted tree stump which makes an excellent chair.


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Rock Climbing Photo: What can I say? She has blue hair and her music gi...
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