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Blue Gramma Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blue Gramma T 
Dawn of an Age T,TR 
Desert Siren (Tower) T,S 
Event Horizon, The T 
Formerly Aided T 
Hayley's Heyday T 
Left of 5.10 Flake T 
Moon Goddess Revenge T 
Orion's Bow T 
Petrelli Motors T 
Price of Evil, The T 
Unknown far left T 
Unknown far left - II T 
Unnamed (far right side - big hands to OW bulge) T 
Unnamed 10+ (steep thin hands dihedral to pod) T 
Unnamed 11 (shares BG anchor) T 
Unnamed 5.10 Flake T 
Unnamed 9+ (big hands dihedral) T 
Unnamed II (fingers through fists) T 
Unsorted Routes:

Blue Gramma 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: unknown
Season: fall to spring.
Page Views: 5,771
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 2, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (100)
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Mitch "the muscle" Musci showing some st...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


Climb up an initial steep move with a 1" or 1.5" cam to access the flake and slab- climb up easy moves leap-frogging the 1" or 1.5" gear to save it for later if you are shy on gear. Continue up to darker and steeper rock, placing a few larger cams (1-2 each 2"-3.5" cams) in wide spots, again to save your 1" and 1.5" gear. Access a good 'pod' in the flake which provides a great stance from which to launch the assault on the meat of the route- the next 10 meters, which will be primarily lie-backs with surprisingly good feet.

Dump any big gear you have left at the low end of this pod then place a 1" cam and a 1.5" cam above it and go. 2-4 more 1.5" placements will get you to the lower angle climbing. Put in gear where you have the best footholds and run between them. Just as you get too pumped, the lower angle rock arrives with a few good jams and a placement for a 2" cam. Finish on the slabby moves to clip a 3-chain anchor.

I gave this climb 5.11- relative to "Formerly Aided" and "Unnamed" which are also rated 5.11 at that cliff and both substantially harder.


Toward the Right Side of Blue Gramma Cliff, this route is not difficult to find. Locate a light-colored slab with a huge, obtuse, dusty, and un-chalked left-facing flake above it's center (un-named 5.11) and a sweet obtuse finger-crack/flake in dark rock to it's right (Blue Gramma).


(2-3) 1" cams,
(4-6) 1.5" cams
1 each, 2" 2.5" & 3"
3.5" optional.
The larger pieces and leapfrogging down low make only 1 1" and 3 1.5" cams necessary for a decent lead, but more can be helpful.

Photos of Blue Gramma Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Around the crux
Around the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Gramma's plaque
Gramma's plaque
Rock Climbing Photo: Blue Gramma, quite a hard warm-up, best route on t...
Blue Gramma, quite a hard warm-up, best route on t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sharina relaxing in the pod before the business st...
Sharina relaxing in the pod before the business st...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sharina getting into the business.
Sharina getting into the business.
Rock Climbing Photo: Stef on the slabby start
Stef on the slabby start
Rock Climbing Photo: Here is where I begin to feel the pump.  This clim...
Here is where I begin to feel the pump. This clim...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb rides out the finish to Blue Gramma (5.1...
Tony Bubb rides out the finish to Blue Gramma (5.1...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb starts up the moderate, but slick start ...
Tony Bubb starts up the moderate, but slick start ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Blue Gramma
Blue Gramma
Rock Climbing Photo: Mitch getting ready for the business
Mitch getting ready for the business

Comments on Blue Gramma Add Comment
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By Anthony Stout
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 3, 2006
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Ahhhh, 5.11-? It's gotta be at least one point higher than that! Have not climbed any 5.11 creek climbs yet but the three 5.11- climbs I have attempted I have done onsite. I fell three times from the top of this route before I could complete it!

Maybe I just haven't done enough creek 11s but this seemed harder than .11- to me. Or, maybe I wasn't stemming enough but that top part was rough lay back moves for me!
By Brian Weinstein
Sep 28, 2007
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Beautiful line in a prime setting.
By Dave Brock
May 19, 2008

HARD 5.11- Feel this is more 5.11b/c.
GREAT route. Very easy approach. Break away from the Supercrack Buttress crowds.
By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Mar 23, 2009

If you have small hands and small feet you can avoid laybacking on this route, but it's still strenuous.
By ccmski body
From: Seattle, WA
Nov 19, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

I thought that this route was harder than Formerly Aided- steeper through the crux without any feet. Gear is great the whole way- plug and go.
By Brian Alexander
Apr 21, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

This was very difficult for me, as are most laybacks at Indian Creek. I used lots of cams from 0.3 to #1 Camalot (especially 0.75), and one #2 Camalot at the top. No need for anything larger, despite what the description says.
By slim
Dec 4, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

time hasn't been too good to this route - it has gotten quite eroded at the lip of the crack. good thumb stacks, but slippery feet.

on a side note, when i was cleaning the gear on the way down, i'm not sure if the flake shifted a little or what, but 8 pieces in a row were absolutely crushed in there. they took a lot of work to remove, and when i removed one of them the whole flake made a loud 'pop' noise.

gear was mostly .5 camalots with a few bigger and a couple smaller.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 29, 2016

A directional camalot (C4) I put in and left for a TR got pivoted and walked upward on Sunday. Absent a tool to get a hold of it, it was not able to be removed by us.
If you get it out with a nut tool, congratulations. If you feel generous, please contact me to return it and I would greatly appreciate that.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Nov 27, 2016
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Pretty great route. Felt like 11b endurance liebacking with a few restful stances along the way. Gets steep at the top! Also, I mysteriously pulled off a softball sized flake about 2/3's of the way up the route. Even on well traveled routes there can still be objective hazard.

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