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YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Peter Croft and Andrew Stevens July 2004
Page Views: 6,254
Submitted By: Neil Kauffman on Aug 29, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Looking up the top part of the crux SPLITTER. Stee...


A technical looking line to the left of the Polish route, on the NW prow of The Hulk.


Many small wires. All bolted anchors, setup for rappel with a 70m rope.

Photos of Blowhard Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P4. Psyched to be climbing 5.10 hands!
P4. Psyched to be climbing 5.10 hands!
Rock Climbing Photo: Kev, entering the crux splitter. With a bit of the...
Kev, entering the crux splitter. With a bit of the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1. Blowhard.
Pitch 1. Blowhard.

Comments on Blowhard Add Comment
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By Nick Stayner
From: Wymont Kingdom
Aug 30, 2010

Yeah Neil, did you climb this rig or what?
By SamP
Aug 20, 2011

I climbed this route with my friend Kevin on a recent trip. This thing is totally worth doing and typical of the Hulk: Amazing rock, challenging climbing and pretty much one crack system the whole way. I have a blurry topo somewhere but it will just as easy to describe:
P1: Climb the rt facing corner just left of the start of the Polish. Clip a bolt at the lip of the roof and climb over it on its left side (5.11) to face climbing past two more bolts. A bit of a runout on easier ground gets you up and right to two more bolts (5.12) to gain the thin crack. Climb this to a stance with one good bolt and a nut.
P2: Climb the crack system straight up and a bit left to the bolted anchor at the base of the crux pitch.(5.10)
P3: Climb the short offwidth to bolted face climbing to gain the crux splitter. Climb the splitter just left of the arete to a stance with a nice bolted anchor. (12+)
P4: Step right around the arete off the anchor and climb an awesome 5.10 splitter crack, stepping right into the next crack system and back left to a bolted belay.
P5: Climb up and left to a short corner with a pin and a fixed offset nut (5.10+ish). Climb straight up to a ledge and belay below a left-leaning undercling.
P6: Undercling left into the final stemming corner with bolts.(5.11+)
We didn't bring a topo and accidentally missed the last pitch by climbing up and right after the short corner with the pin, onto the Polish route? We rapped over the final pitch, it looks rad, we'll have to go back!
We brought a double set from black alien/purple C3 to #2Camalot and a single 3 camalot. Kevin ran it out a bit on the short offwidth below the crux, but the climbing wasn't bad. I believe we brought offset brass but I don't remember needing them. Pretty standard Hulk rack. One important NOTE: I think Neil mentions this route being set up for rappel with a 70 meter rope (Neil, did you rap with a 70?). We brought an 80 and found it crucial. Oh, and this beta we got from Jake proved accurate and helpful: from the base of the crux pitch you rappel climbers' left into the gully in one rap with the 80.
Hope this helps. What an amazing route. It deserves more attention.
By Luke Stefurak
From: Seattle, WA
Jun 28, 2013

Some beta for rappeling:

You can rappel from the base of the crux into the gulley with a 70m rope. This anchor is the same as the P2 anchor for the polish route.

Do not try to rappel down to the fixed nut anchor on the polish route. Shenanigans or two ropes are required to get off.

Some of my friends tried to rappel the upper section of Blowhard with a 70m rope and ended up having to downclimb a few sections (NOT Recommended!!).

If rappelling Blowhard use an 80m rope!
By ben ditto
Jun 7, 2017

Katie and I climbed this yesterday and had a great time, though we got a little confused while using the new guide book and comparing with some of the comments on here...

some thoughts:

-the first half is pretty straightforward. the crux pitch is hard, though not in a bouldery way, more in a continuous way. next time i'll take a #4 camalot and TRIPLES in the tiny - .3 camalot size. back cleaning gear is not a good OS strategy...

- once you get to the top of the 4th pitch, things get a little confusing. maybe we had denial, but we just couldn't make the topo match up w the we climbed out the top of polish route...checked out the undercling flake which is more like 5.6 than 5.11+ and then gained some insights after the rappel.

-the 5.11+ (5th) pitch is around the corner to the left. the anchor is 2 bolts separated by 4' or so and connected by a bunch of tat.

-there is only 1 bolt at the base of the last pitch (the topo shows two)

-have fun
By Louis Mullerleile
From: Sacramento, California
Aug 14, 2017
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Great route! Comparable in quality to Venturi, though not as long or as sustained.

Route finding beta after 4th pitch:
-From the anchor climb straight up to a bolt using the thin crack and arete, then a ledge to a piton, then I climbed over bulge/corner with a short 3" crack on the left. Once at the ledge/blocky section, you can see a corner with a series of small ledges to a 'left tending' undercling and a bolt below the 'sweet shallow bolted corner'-DO NOT GO THAT WAY(well at least if you want to stay on route). From the ledge, look directly left and walk/scramble around the corner to the bolted anchors below the awesome corner. I would recommend linking this corner with the second 'sweet shallow bolted corner' to the top :)

Rack thoughts:
-#4 is nice
-extra smaller stuff was perfect for the crux(especially 0.1-0.3 BD or black-green alien)

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