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Blotter is my Spotter 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A4-

Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 550', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A4- [details]
FA: p1. F. Sanders 1989 p2.-3. F. Sanders, P. Kingsbury, J. Kilroy Oct 4 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 4,764
Submitted By: TomKingsbury on Oct 12, 2007

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NOW THAT'S AN AID PITCH !!! Looking down the long ...

June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


P1. straight foward aid leads to a thin section requiring beaks, rurps and stacks. (A3+) 140'.

P2. as many blades as you can bring, a marathon of a pitch. (A2+) 165'.

P3. Thin aid mixed with a few larger pieces in bad rock lead to a point where one is forced to free climb. (5.5, A4-) 100'

P4. 'The Kor Chimney', shares the same exit as 'Saber'. Follow the left leaning chimney right side in. (5.6) 100'


in the middle of the west face, two cracks left of 'spank the monkey'


Standard tower aid rack, including lots of blades and beaks, and gear up to a 5 friend.

Photos of Blotter is my Spotter Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: We Ran Out of Daylight, But NOT OUT Of Flashlight ...
We Ran Out of Daylight, But NOT OUT Of Flashlight ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pat Kingsbury and Jessica Kilroy drinking victory ...
Pat Kingsbury and Jessica Kilroy drinking victory ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Frank Sanders leading, Patrick Kingsbury belaying ...
Frank Sanders leading, Patrick Kingsbury belaying ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Patrick Kingsbury and Jessica Kilroy at the start ...
Patrick Kingsbury and Jessica Kilroy at the start ...

Comments on Blotter is my Spotter Add Comment
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By TomKingsbury
Feb 12, 2008

Franks description (from

This First Pitch was first climbed in August, 1989 by Frank Sanders , solo.

Pitch 1. (140ft, 5.7, A3) Free climb, then aid up the corner. As height increases, the crack diminishes. The final 1/3 of the pitch is accomplished on hooks, RURPS, "heads" and a few tied-off blades. There is air to catch, but nothing to hit, Really. A 3-bolt belay rewards your efforts.

Pitches 2 & 3 were added in October 2007 by Patrick Kingsbury, Frank Sanders, with Faithful belays by Jessica Kilroy !!

Pitch 2. (165ft, A2)Aid on up the very slender crack until a belay can be arranged at the point where the rock becomes more broken. This is a Long, Fun aid pitch that requires many, many Knife Blades (30+), Lost Arrows and a few bigger pieces for the belay and occaissional pocket.

Pitch 3. (75ft, A3+/A4-,5.4)This one seems to be the CRUX of the climb. It is thin nailing, intersperced by large, rotten pods, through a couple bulges, until it is possible to free climb to a Very Solid Belay in the base of the Exit Chimney. (You need to take both Very Small & Very Large pieces on this one. Patrick recalls the pitch as going something like..."Baby Angle, #3.5 Camalot, Beaks, Beaks, Beaks, #4 Camalot, #2 Camalot, #5 Camalot(in a pile of Kitty Litter), #4 Camalot(in a similar pile), Beaks, Beaks, Beaks, RURP, RURP, RURP, Beaks, Beaks, Leeper-Z, Stopperhead, RURP, #2 Friend then unprotected 5.4 to the chimney belay" !!! Hats-Off to Patrick for a Bold and Innovative lead !!!

Pitch 4. (110ft, 5.6) Follow the Kor Chimney that is the Finish to the Saber Route (First climbed by Layton Kor & Steve "Tex" Bossier on April 26, 1964). Essential Gear Standard Aid Rack + 10-RURPS, 10-15 Beaks, 5-Leeper-Z, 30+ Knife Blades,6-#4&5 Friends/Camalots.

a better description than the quick one i posted....thanks Frank!

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