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BETA PHOTO: Sorry it's out of focus but Bloombagged again goes...
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
Despite what Bloom says in every edition of his guide books this route is not 5.11 and until recently did not have anchors. However, it's a super varied climb with everything, face holds, tips locks, chicken wings and all those in between sizes. Still a few crumbly edges that will clean up with time but on nice varnished rock!
Just to the left of Hole in the Wall, start carefully up a crumbly pillar (A .4, #4 and #3 protect this fairly well)
There is a bolt protecting the crux. Recommended gear is something along the lines of: 1 blue alien, 1 green alien, 2x .3, 3x .4, 3x orange metolius (.5's are super tight), 1x .75, 2-3x #1, 2x #2, 3x #3, 3x #4, 2x #5, 1x #6 (all in camalots unless otherwise specified)
By Joel Unema
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 21, 2015
This might be my favorite route name at the creek.
By blue ribbon
From: Indian Creek, UT
Jun 3, 2016
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Chop the bolt!
By Sam Feuerborn
Jun 6, 2016
Hahaha the toprope tough guy has spoken. Time to lead it Nick!