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Bloody Tax Break 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA:  Mike Forkash, Steve Gerberding and Jay Goodwin (aka Punkman) 2/83
Page Views: 779
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 12, 2003

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Tony Bubb wants a 'Bloody Tax Break' (10b) at the ...


To find Bloody Tax Break, approach IRS wall as for Taxman. Bloody Tax Break ascends the thin fingers-to-tips crack about 3-4 meters to the right hand side of Taxman, near or on the right hand arete of that same wall. The precise way to approach is difficult, but more or less consists of walking towards IRS wall, approaching it's lower left hand side, then clambering up and over boulders towards it's upper right hand side until you encounter these two stunning fingercracks in a flat wall capped by a roof just below the top. Climb up to the crack at the right hand side. Near the ground, you can step to the right and climb easy terrain with the crack or step left and make an eliminate problem out of the crack, climbing a better line on better rock. As the climb continues, a bulge on the right side of the arete forces those on the right into the harder climbing for the crux anyway. There are two cruxes on this route, of a similar nature to that of Taxman, but perhaps a little harder; one 1/2 way up, and one switching cracks to the right at the small roof as the original line disappears. This climb would get more stars if the rock were more solid.


The pro on this route is reasonable at the crux, and below that can be had with patience. I seriously recommend taking some thin cams or slider nuts if you like to put in a lot of gear or are not really solid at 5.10-. Fixed anchors up and left 10' above 'Taxman' provide a convenient belay and rap off.

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By tom donnelly
From: san diego
Nov 8, 2005

Good climbing, but contrived, since you can step out right to the gully at various times. Since getting in good pro is tricky at times, I felt kinda foolish leading it when I could have stepped out right. Makes a great toprope off the bolts atop Taxman.
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Apr 23, 2007

Contrived? It's a natural line...? 'Contrived' is a term that applies to sport climbing, and to gym climbing, but not to climbing natural features. Maybe calling it .10b is contrived, if you think you're able to climb it at a lesser grade by staying in the gulley.

But a crack itself is never contrived. Don't blame the line!
By AlexK
Mar 9, 2012

The only way to make this route fun and at the grade is to blatantly ignore all the ledges less than two feet to your right. This is an annoying task when you look down and only see 0 and 00 pieces beneath you. Definitely contrived, but if you're here for taxman, then it's worth doing.
By brucy
Jun 25, 2015

All this talk about the "contrived route"- what a joke! Like the first ascensionist purposely "put" the route in the wrong place and some poor put-upon climbers only discover this when they've done the route- after the fact!

Speaking about facts: the route was, in deed, put up in 83' but by Mike Forkash and followed by Steve Gerberding and Jay Goodwin.

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