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Ramsay's Pinnacle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bloody Shin T,TR 
Broken Peace TR 
Burt's Beta TR 
Butterfly McQueen T,TR 
Cut-Rate Arete TR 
Eagle Dihedral T 
Green Ramp T 
Monochrome T,TR 
Nobleese Oblige T,TR 
Pit Start T,TR 
Pit Stop TR 
Ramsay's Ramp T,TR 
Ramsay's Ride T,TR 
Rube Goldberg T,TR 
Sleestak T,TR 

Bloody Shin 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Old School
Page Views: 209
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Apr 5, 2011

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Doug Hemken pulling the crux of "Bloody Shin&...

Description 

Start in the dihedral below the roof, as shown in Nick's photo. According to Swartling and Mayer, exit the roof to the right ... but there is no gear out that way. Alternatively, step left onto the big shelf (easy, great gear) or follow the crack slightly left (not the greatest gear).

Cross easy ledges to the upper dihedral.

The upper dihedral is the crux, especially the last two moves.

The crux sews up with a couple of nuts and a 1/4" cam.

Location 

Located directly below Ramsay's Pinnacle.

Protection 

Trad.


Photos of Bloody Shin Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Burt, at the start
Burt, at the start
Rock Climbing Photo: At the crux
At the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Bloody Shin. Sven says go right at the first roof,...
BETA PHOTO: Bloody Shin. Sven says go right at the first roof,...

Comments on Bloody Shin Add Comment
Show which comments
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Nov 2, 2015
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

I took over this page from someone else, and the 5.7 rating is theirs. I thought this felt like a 5.8, myself.
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 2, 2015

It's rated 5.7 in Swartling's guide as well. I'm not surprised by that....hee hee!

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