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Bloody Mary 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 539
Submitted By: Tristan Higbee on Sep 23, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Me on Bloody Mary, enjoying the steep climbing out...


This is the surprisingly fun gaping maw left of George. From the Lounge Lizards p.1 belay, climb straight up the corner till you get to the awkward pod. Climb out of the pod on steep rock with good face holds (with fun exposure!). Stick your arm deep inside when you need to, otherwise just use the flakes and face holds. Belay at a couple of ring anchors either to the left of the top of the route or the right (look down and over a bit).


Left of George, directly above the first pitch of Lounge Lizards.


Standard rack including a #4 and #5.

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By Tristan Higbee
From: Ogden, UT
Sep 23, 2010

I really enjoyed this route and will do it again. I'm surprised I haven't seen more people on it or heard of more people climbing it. There's a giant pile of guano above the pod (how's that for an appealing description?) but it's really easy to avoid. Great route that I almost want to give 3 stars to. Just plain fun. Also, I belayed on the left set of anchors (they're the anchors for the variation to the second pitch of Lounge Lizards) because it looked like less drag than belaying from the right set of anchors.
By Darren Knezek
Sep 23, 2010

You truly are a Rock Canyon addict. The bat guano was there over 20 years ago when I first climbed it. My climbing partner for the day kept yelling, "Don't drag my rope through that guano!" and, "Are you sure it's not going through the guano?"
By Christopher Sorensen
From: Provo, UT
Sep 26, 2010

This climb was a lot of fun. The best part is definitely the exposure as you move out of the crack to the second half of the climb. And, yeah, don't stick your hand in the guano.

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