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Left of l'Aiguille
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bloody Hand T,TR 
Bloody Mary T,TR 
Double fissure classique T,TR 
Double fissure directe T,TR 
Jadis T,TR 
L'Amuse-gueule T,TR 
L'Étranger S,TR 
Le Dièdre T,TR 
Le Recoin T 
Les Mauvais compagnons S,TR 
Pas de face T,TR 
Pied de Nez S 
Spannungsbogen T,TR 

Bloody Hand 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Claude Lavallee, Francois Garneau, 1957
Page Views: 682
Submitted By: Luc-514 on May 16, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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A climber on Bloody Hand

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Follow a series of flakes and cracks going up a dihedral.


The dihedral just right of the "nosey" prow.


Standard rack.
Bolted rap/anchor.

Photos of Bloody Hand Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bloody hand follows the obvious crack. The start i...
Bloody hand follows the obvious crack. The start i...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bloody hand
Bloody hand
Rock Climbing Photo: 698 Bloody Hands Bloody Mary Pas de Face
BETA PHOTO: 698 Bloody Hands Bloody Mary Pas de Face

Comments on Bloody Hand Add Comment
Show which comments
By rocknice2
From: Montreal, Quebec
Oct 8, 2013

It's named Bloody Hand. Singular not plural.
Excellent route.
By Daniel Israel
From: Montreal, Quebec
Jun 6, 2014
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Yes, Excellent. But hard for the grade.
By B L
From: Montréal, Québec
Jul 31, 2016

This route seemed much harder than 5.7. I found Marie and Bastard easier and they are cracks in a corner and both are rated 5.9. Especially the last moves before the easy top out where the crack widens and goes slightly diagonal. What does everyone think? Perhaps i didn't read it right?
By Luc-514
From: Montreal, Quebec
Aug 1, 2016

Bernard, Welcome to old-school ratings! you can add what you think of the grade under "Your rating:".
I find the route a very good for learning to jam, sure it's painful but it holds very well.
By Francis QC
From: Montreal
Aug 3, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Some jams are awkward and might complicate things if you do them in the wrong sequence.

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