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Wayback Layback Area (FTGU Right)
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Bloody Finger T 
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Wayback Layback T 

Bloody Finger 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Darren Jensen 1993
Page Views: 54
Submitted By: Dru on Sep 11, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Bloody Finger


Begin from the left end of the bushy ledge at the base and climb up and left to gain a short hanging right-facing flake crack (finger sized cams). From its top, make cruxy moves up and right over overlaps (look for a cam placement under one of these) and finish up to the belay tree. Serious and bouldery climbing.


On the left side of the slabby dome down and left from the start of Wayback Layback - the climb starts in front of the fallen tree that is walked to reach the belay block for Wayback etc. Rappel from the belay tree that is shared with Bootsauce.


A few finger sized cams and nuts.

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By Dru
Sep 30, 2012

This climb has seen some scrubbing with two brand new bolts appearing near the arete about 4 feet right of the flake which used to be used to protect the opening moves. Possibly a squeezed in direct start or?
By Dru
Apr 26, 2016

The two bolts which appeared in 2012 were later removed. New this spring are four brand new bolts.

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