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Catch Me Now I'm Falling T 
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Enigma, The T 
Fat Dog T 
First Return T 
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Good Intentions T 
Left Up T 
Legacy, The T 
Lichen or Not T 
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Parachute Woman T 
Rat's Ass T 
Right Up T 
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Sentry Box Ledge Direct T,TR 
Short Man's Sorrow T 
Slug, The T 
Southender T 
Unfinished Concerto T 
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Zodiac T 
Unsorted Routes:

Bloody Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Stan Wallace, Jim McEver, Ron Cousins in 1973
Season: Avoid summertime, unless
Page Views: 6,771
Submitted By: Rob Dillon on Oct 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (97)
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Topping out P1


Can you see yourself in the starting holds? Generations of muddy-booted toproping campers have polished the footholds beyond all hope of repair.

Look for a handcrack that doesn't quite reach the ground. Avoiding the snot-slick opening feet by smearing arbitrarily on the face, thug your way into the crack proper and jam up to Stage Ledge. If you are a guide, or a camp counselor, rue the chopping of the convenience bolts and tediously rig a belay in the corner. Toss your toprope off, and spend the day encouraging your young charges to trust their feet despite the clearly impossible nature of the exhortation. 5.7+, 50'.

P2: Follow the corner off the left end of the ledge, escaping before it arches over. Belay in eyebrows when you feel like it.

P3: Meander left to the Gemini raps, 150'.


Bloody Crack is located near the right end of the South Face, below a large ledge with 4th-class access at the right end.


No fixed gear. Standard rack.

Photos of Bloody Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Belay ledge at the top of pitch one.
BETA PHOTO: Belay ledge at the top of pitch one.
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of Bloody (smooth) crack, Looking Glass,...
The start of Bloody (smooth) crack, Looking Glass,...

Comments on Bloody Crack Add Comment
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By Mike Anderson
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 19, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Another boulder problem route. Bring a crash pad and jump off after 15' and save yourself some time.
By Andy Kowles
From: Longtuckles
Oct 17, 2011

Haha on above comment. Fun to take this up all the way to the top with a 70m. Fun warmup pitch when you combine every good move.

Boo hoo hoo on the polished start.
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Oct 18, 2011

Slick Willy Start, that rock has seen its share of use and its not hard to tell by its polish and shimmer. Even though it is a highly traveled route it is definitely worth a go, especially if your new to the South Face area. Another route where a crash pad is very easing on the mind and body.

  • If your going to climb at the South Face, just bring a crash pad or a couple soft fluffy bunnies, I mean buddies and save yourself some anxiety*

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