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Bloody Corner  

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 800', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Alan Bartlett, Alan Pietransanta, September 1979
Page Views: 3,396
Submitted By: Murf on Sep 20, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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THE corner.

Access limited from May to October every year MORE INFO >>>


Bloody Corner could be considered Mithril's "big brother" in some ways. The corner is a beauty; clean, looks dead vertical and an almost perfect right angle. The money climbing is a touch shorter than Mithril, but harder and more sustained. It is as good or better than anything on the other Russell "Big Three", but the approach and exit pitches leave something to be desired.

Pitch 1 60-100': A short easy pitch up to a bench below the corner. You can start this pitch from the same bench as Mithral/Startrekkin' or you could begin lower, more toward the corner of the west face and southwest buttress. Depending on the start, you could potentially link pitches 1 and 2.

Pitch 2 ( 80+', 5.9+ ): Wander up a handcrack to base of the corner. The rock in the corner is grainy and loose in places. The decision between big hands or a layback is what's on your mind for the top of the pitch.

Pitch3 ( 90+', 5.10- ): Climb technical, but intermittent, liebacking to the base of the crux pitch.

Pitch 4 (150', 5.10): Lieback, stem, jam, and otherwise enjoy yourself on this beauty. The climbing gets steeper and the options for resting and stemming disappear the higher you go. The best belay is under the big roof (#3 Camalots).

Pitch 5 (100+, 5.9): Move around the roof(crux) and climb through grooves to the subsummit. A platform is reached, but it is likely more efficient to move 25-30' higher. Again some of the rock on this pitch is loose, and care should be taken of climbers below.

A few hundred feet of 4th and 5th class lead to the summit, basically the same ground as Mithral and Startrekkin'.


Bloody Corner is the leftmost corner on the southwest face. It is considerable shallower than Mithral. Like Mithral, the corner can be bitterly cold if you get an early start. Planning on being in the corner at 11am and you'll likely have sunshine.

Either descend the SW Chimney or take the East Ridge back to Upper Boy Scout.


- Doubles from green alien to #3 Camalot
- A #3.5 or New Style #4 can be helpful on pitch 2.
- A single set of nuts.

Depending on ones comfort with backcleaning and gear spacing, triples of yellow Alien through #2 Camalot could be nice on the crux pitch.

Photos of Bloody Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cam aka the stemming king on the corner pitch.
Cam aka the stemming king on the corner pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Route overlay Bloody Corner
BETA PHOTO: Route overlay Bloody Corner
Rock Climbing Photo: From left to right Double Dihedral, Bloody Corner,...
From left to right Double Dihedral, Bloody Corner,...
Rock Climbing Photo: The offhands second pitch.
The offhands second pitch.

Comments on Bloody Corner Add Comment
Show which comments
By Wylie
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 14, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Combine pitches 2 + 3 into one long pitch with marginal rock at times and fun climbing. The corner is like a finger version of Mithral and it's amazing! I'm surprised this climb doesn't get done much as I found it to be just as good as Mihtral at a harder grade. Good fun!
By amockalypsenow
From: San Diego
Jun 18, 2017

A 70m cord was needed to link 2 & 3.
By Clemence Bacquet
From: Boulder
Jun 20, 2017
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great climb! Slightly dirty but well worth it. The corner pitch is long, sustained and amazing.
We had a double rack plus a couple extra pieces from #0.5-#2 BD, which was nice since we combined p2&3. A double rack would probably have been fine.

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