REI Community
Southeast Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arm and Hammer T 
Bloody Bolts and Brown Trousers T 
Catholic School Girls Direct T 
Children of the Sun T 
Connections T 
Crown of Thorns T 
First Mate T 
Great Ah Ha, The T 
Matrix, The T 
New Diversions T 
Original Route (aka Gom Jabber) T 
Parental Guidance T 
Perverse Incentive T 
Traditions T 
Volunteer Wall, The T 
Warriors Way T 
Whippin' Boy T 
Whiteside Girdle T 
Unsorted Routes:

Bloody Bolts and Brown Trousers 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a A0

Type:  Trad, Aid, 8 pitches, 700'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a A0 [details]
FA: Bruce Burgess, Nathan Brown
Season: spring, fall
Page Views: 2,010
Submitted By: nbrown on Dec 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Bruce on the pitch 6 traverse.

Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>


I'm going to try to remember the details here but it has been a few years since this route was done. This route gets shade earliest of the headwall routes as it is on the far left side. It can also be split into two climbs by the massive tree ledge, either by doing the first half and bailing, or traversing in and climbing only the top half.

P-1 Climb up the corner past gear to a bolt that protects the traverse right to the other corner. Follow this past gear and a pin to an awkward move onto the face. Climb past 2 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. This is a good cragging pitch but is a spicy and strenuous lead! 5.11

P-2 Climb up and left on huge holds past 2 bolts and gear to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.8+

P-3 Climb up thin face past a bolt to a steeper section in orange rock. Continue up and left past another bolt to easier terrain. Continue up to tree, or optional 2 bolt belay (on different route). Note: the bolt count may be off. 5.10+

P-4 Climb up the easy but run out face to a steeper section protected with 2 large bolts. Follow this to the "Port O Call" ledge. Move belay up to high part of ledge for pitch 5. 5.10+

Edit: This pitch had some recent hold breakage and may need an additional bolt for pro (protecting the move up to the first).

P-5 Climb a short section of increadibly rotten rock to bolts and perhaps a stopperhead. Continue up and right past gear and maybe one more bolt to a ledge with a single bolt & gear anchor. 5.11/A0 The aid bit is very short.

P-6 Traverse out right and climb up past bolts and gear to a 2 bolt hanging belay at the brink of the headwall. Excellent rock and excellent exposure! 5.11+ This pitch has gone free but still needs a proper redpoint.

P-7 Traverse right and climb a seam up onto the easier face that leads into the upper portion of "Ship Of Fools". Belay on large tree ledge. 5.9+?

P-8 Climb the easy slab to the large right facing corner feature at the overlook. 5.7


Starts in a double right facing corner at the far left of the Headwall area.


Standard rack up to #4 camelot. Small stoppers are very useful on the first pitch.

Photos of Bloody Bolts and Brown Trousers Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P-1  Cool rock on the face above the corners.
P-1 Cool rock on the face above the corners.
Rock Climbing Photo: P-2
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason low on Pitch 1.
Jason low on Pitch 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: The route (roughly).
BETA PHOTO: The route (roughly).

Comments on Bloody Bolts and Brown Trousers Add Comment
Show which comments
By Scott Gilliam
From: Raleigh, NC
Dec 22, 2009

Any hope this will go free, Nathan?
By nbrown
From: western NC
Dec 23, 2009

Not sure Scott. The aid bit is very short and steep but slightly crumbly. The next pitch was freed by Bruce (yoyo), so I went back and removed the A-0 rating.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About