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YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 7 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Smith and Wharton
Page Views: 169
Submitted By: chris Kalous on Jul 6, 2009

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Rob Van Aernem just past the crux.

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A good route with a bit of scabby rock. A well protected 5.12 face climbing crux gives way to good technical corners. Nice position and exposure.

P1: Start up a rotten crack that leads to a square cut roof. Traverse left before the roof to join a cleaner crack with difficult small cam pro. Continue up and left to yet another corner and finally pegmatite ledges perched on the left edge of Aments Chimney. 5.11

P2: Daintily climb up blocks to place a high big cam. Then climb down and left, then up to a crack and a bolt. Climb to another bolt. Then step down and left on difficult face-climbing to clip a pin. 5.12-. Nebulous pro takes you up the arete to a stance below a shallow corner with a pin. Resist the temptation to lock up the red camalot sized part of the crack when you set up the belay. It will be an important footer for the first moves of P3.

P3: Make a difficult move off the belay. 5.11+. Climb the corner past several fixed nuts and a pin. A 5.11 stemming problem guards the stance for the belay.

P4: The slightly scabby corner continues for a rope-length to a good ledge down and left of an obvious OW corner. 5.11.

P5: Climb up to and layback and stem the wide corner (4.5 Camalot). 5.10+. Continue up and left on broken ground above. Belay on a large ledge below and right of the wide corner (Katchina Wings finish).

P6: Head up a wide open corner to a chockstone. Step left into an angling hand and finger crack. Belay on a large ledge. 5.10.

P7: Step left and head up 5.7 corners to easier ground and the huge tree ledge just below the top.

Walk left to find the 3rd class exit to the top.


Starts just left of Aments Chimney and right of Kachina Wings after 4th class terrain gains the grassy ledges near these routes and Journey Home. Look for the corners and square roof on pitch one.


Nuts, "RPs", double set of cams to #2 Camalot. One each old #3, #4, and #4.5 Camalots.

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By Jay 1975
From: Bonedale,CO
Nov 9, 2010

The crux was one of those black, "improbable cruxes" that really was weird and all the holds faced the wrong way. The 3rd pitch has seam crux moves over a ledge! Seam=no crack. We decided better to bail and do "Maiden", forgot how classic that is!

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