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(f) Cocaine Gully
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YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
Season: winter: morning summer, afternoon
Page Views: 3,868
Submitted By: ferrells on Mar 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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Corey McCarthy styling this fine little crux festi...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


A motley of cruxes pepper this classic route, but it's mainly defined by its sustained, deviously circuitous character. You get everything - a tricky overhanging deadpoint (or trickier static), a thin and technical crux, a sustained finish, and a great view at the top.
For such a large crag, smith is heavy on great 12's, 13's and 14's, and relatively short on world class bolted elevens. Of the (two or three) handfuls that qualify, this is absolutely one of the best.


On the "other" side of cocaine gully, perhaps 75 yards uphill from Vomit Launch. Look for an ugly black streaked wall and bolted crack; left of this wall, you'll find a well chalked, overhanging route: Crack Babies. Bloodshot is a just downhill (with a route in between), and starts on a solid 5.easyish ramp angling left.


roughly ten bolts

Photos of Bloodshot Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Harrison staying cool on Bloodshot
Harrison staying cool on Bloodshot
Rock Climbing Photo: Taylor sticking the crux crimp
Taylor sticking the crux crimp
Rock Climbing Photo: Corey doin' Corey
Corey doin' Corey
Rock Climbing Photo: Cool climb.  Throwin down with Mr. Hollenbeck as u...
Cool climb. Throwin down with Mr. Hollenbeck as u...
Rock Climbing Photo: JonZ on Bloodshot
JonZ on Bloodshot

Comments on Bloodshot Add Comment
Show which comments
By Toby Butterfield
From: Portland, OR
Oct 24, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Super fun. Well bolted when it needs to be, little spacey when the climbing eases to keep things interesting, plenty of rest stances to get your shit together between cruxes.

In my opinion the real crux of the route comes at the very top getting to and moving off of a great sidepull. The falls from here are a little intimidating since the route has kind of a little ramp below you, but I've taken some whips here and they were all a-ok.
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Jun 13, 2012

+1 that this route is super good! Get on it!
By Chris Sepic
From: Bend, OR
Oct 13, 2014

Excellent route. There are two pairs of bolts spaced closed together (about 2 feet). If you clip both at the top you may want a longer sling on the bottom one to avoid some drag at the top crux.
By Kevin MP
From: Redmond, OR
Mar 29, 2016
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

One of the very best 11s in the park! Cruxes felt comparable in difficulty to vomit launch, but with more rests on this route.
By dmPete
Oct 23, 2016
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Wonderful route. As much fun as I've had on any climb at Smith.
By bmb Murphy-Baum
Mar 10, 2017

couldn't pull of the deadpoint to the right after the bulge. Ended up staying left on the rail and moving through the bottom crux that way, its weird but it works. Maybe this is the static beta referenced in the description?

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