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Bloodline 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 480'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 2,140
Submitted By: Nelson Day on Mar 29, 2015

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some low 5th class on the approach pitches 1&2

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This last pitch of this route is THE best finger crack in the history of mankind. Ever. I couldn't believe it just kept going and going. Splitter locker fingers. Need I say more? Due to some other reviews/comments, I am going to revise this statement. I will say this is the best finger crack I have done in Red Rock..

Details:

Approach as per Deep Space. We chose the climber left side of the triangle rubble heap getting up to the route start. If you choose to pitch this out, it's about 200 feet of mostly 4th class with a little bit of 5th class mixed in. Call it pitches 1 & 2. This will land you at the top of the rubble triangle heap (as it appears in the Handren guide book picture).

Pitch 3: From the top of the rubble heap, when you look up, you will see a line of bolts going up the face to the left of the chimneys of deep space. This is the first true pitch of the climb. Follow the bolt line up the face, over a bulge (crux), and up committing slabs (trending left) to the base of the finger crack. This pitch ends on a nice ledge with a bolted anchor. 9-10 bolts, 180 feet, 5.10b/c and spicy.

Pitch 4: The money pitch. Follow the amazing and sustained splitter finger crack for ~100 feet up the face. About 50 feet up this pitch, as one crack peters out, switch to another splitter crack (transition protected by a bolt) and continue up excellent edging and finger locks. Before you know it, you will be at a steeper section of the face (possibly slightly overhanging). Continue up this section (crux) to a roof. Pull over the roof with bomber hand jams (#3 camalot) and continue about 10 feet to a heavy duty chain anchor/hanging belay. This pitch is mostly green alien, but you can get an assortment of nuts as well as a few other cams in pods. I took two green aliens and ended up bumping one for about 30 feet before leaving it, and then immediately placing the second green alien and bumping it... 100 feet, 5.11a

Rap the climb with two ropes.

Location 

Although we climbed up the left side of the triangle rubble heap as approach pitches, we chose a different method to get off of the climb. From the anchor at the bottom of the splitter finger crack, double rope rappel all the way down to the bottom of the chimney on the climber's right side at the start of the real climbing (pitch 3 above). We had to down climb just a little bit down a gully at the base of this rappel. This is a full 200 foot rappel. From here, proceed down the gully another 50 feet to a tree with rap slings on it. Double rope rappel from here another full 200 feet to the ground. Beat some bushes, head left a bit, and you will be back on the trail leading out.

Protection 

Double ropes (or rope with a tag), rack with doubles in finger sizes and singles in 1, 2, & 3 camalot, 12 draws. 4 green aliens (or equivalent) if you are not comfortable bumping gear in sustained finger cracks. Wired nuts.


Photos of Bloodline Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nelson leading the sweet 11a finger crack of Blood...
Nelson leading the sweet 11a finger crack of Blood...
Rock Climbing Photo: Polly on the first pitch lead
Polly on the first pitch lead
Rock Climbing Photo: From the hanging belay at the top of the .11a fing...
From the hanging belay at the top of the .11a fing...
Rock Climbing Photo: The amazing .11a splitter finger crack pitch of Bl...
The amazing .11a splitter finger crack pitch of Bl...

Comments on Bloodline Add Comment
Show which comments
By Polly
Mar 30, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This could be one of the sweetest hidden gems of Red Rock. An incredible line with interesting movement. This should not be missed!
By Josh Janes
General Admin
Apr 17, 2015

We also climbed the left side of the rubble pyramid (which was relatively painless), but we descended via the left side as well from a tree with rap slings that you will pass on your way up. This brought us right back to our packs.

I hate to be the lone dissenter here but I thought Nelson's superlative description of the quality of this finger crack is a little bit of a stretch. The crack is in no way sustained (rests every few feet) and it has plenty of hollow rock and crispy holds - it would not make my top 20 list of finger cracks. That said, this is a great route that has been "hidden in plain sight" for some time now.
By Cha Tate
From: Saint George, UT
Apr 22, 2015

Liz and I did this route on Saturday. If you consider the first two pitches as the "approach" it could be a classic. That being said, I agree with Josh's comments. I thought the third pitch was the best part of the climb, 180 feet of sporty moves followed by some face into a right facing corner, spectacular. The crack pales in comparison to many finer finger cracks like the amazing finger crack of Shune's buttress. I thought this crack was more 5.10 due to the significant rests every few moves. It is good though and worth the approach. We approached an rapped off the left side. The rapps require a little thinking to avoid massive rope drag when pulling but can be done.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Apr 21, 2016
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

This is a pretty good route. I don't think the finger crack is as awesome as Nelson describes it. Maybe he was super psyched when he wrote the description and that's OK. However, it's still pretty good but there are very few pure crack moves involved in the pitch. Using a 60m rope it's possible to lower the leader back to the belay ledge and have their second follow the pitch, belaying from the comfort of a fat ledge. Be careful doing so... the pitch is about 101' long.

The approach pitches can be easily soloed to a point where steeper, chossier rock guards a bushy ramp to the base of the 5.10c pitch. Best to rope up for this pitch. All in all, the approach pitches are closer to 400' than 300'.

In all honesty the 5.10c pitch is good but felt a bit disjunct and would perhaps climb better in two 90' pitches. This may also enable a single-rope descent...

My partner and I bolstered a rap anchor that consisted of two robust shrubs neatly equalized with an array of cord. This rappel can be a pain in the neck if not managed appropriately. Consider saddle bagging your ropes and rappelling skiers left (down the cleanest looking slab of rock) to avoid shredding your hands/body/face in the desert oak and cactus.

This is a good morning adventure route. The rack Nelson suggested is appropriate.
By Josh Janes
General Admin
Apr 28, 2016

Nelson, want to know what I think is the "best finger crack in Red Rocks" (and one that deserves the 5.11 grade)? Well, I'm going to tell you! Cactus Connection's second pitch. But you have to do a bit of work to get to it. And even better, though only rated 5.10 (though harder than Bloodline) is Mr. Natural. Check 'em out!
By Michael Kimm
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 16, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

As others have said, this route doesn't require much crack technique. That being said, the top two pitches are excellent. Some traffic on pitch four has cleaned it up nicely too; only one hold terrified me when it moved. I would agree there are no 5.11 moves on the thing either. At best, it might have 5.11a pump. If it's 5.11a, it's soft at the grade.
The third pitch is soft as well. We thought it felt about 5.10a, and didn't find it particularly spicy.
If not for rubble pyramid guarding the upper two pitches, this thing would see A LOT of traffic I think.
By Ball
From: Oakridge, OR
Oct 1, 2016
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This may be a finger size thing, but I found the last pitch a lot easier than the previous one. Didn't even clip the bolt.

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